EShapeoko 1.2 Assembly: Prep work
Check the metal plates for burrs, droplets of metal, or spalsh marks. Scrape them off if possible, or file them off if necessary.
Tap all the end holes in the MakerSlide M5×0.8mm (standard M5 thread), except the Z rail, which needs only one end tapped. Brush chips away and wipe the rail clean, to prevent damage to the V-wheels.
Tap the small holes in the belt tensioners, also M5×0.8mm.
Mark the side nearest the hole in the eccentric spacers by colouring it with a Sharpie or with a tiny dab of paint. The wheel will be offset in the marked direction.
Dual X MakerSlide
If you have a dual X rail kit with an X rail longer than 375 mm, please drill the X MakerSlide for the screws that hold the two rails together.
Lay the MakerSlide flat, Vs up, and drill 3 mm (or slightly larger) holes into the bottom of the T-slot, through the core. The slot has a fine groove on the bottom to help center the drill bit. The positioning of the holes along the MakerSlide is not critical. Drill both X pieces of MakerSlide the same way.
Depending on the length of the X MakerSlide, drill as follows:
- 375 mm: no drilling required;
- 500 mm: drill three holes every 125 mm;
- 750 mm: drill four holes every 150 mm;
- 1000 mm: drill six holes every 143 mm.
If you have the deluxe frame, you need to drill access holes for the Torx T25 key to reach the blind joint screws that hold the bottom of the frame together.
Drill four holes in each of the transversal members of the frame, two near each end. Depending on the difference between the length of the extrusion and that of the X axis MakerSlide, drill them this far from each end:
- extrusion 60 mm longer than the X MakerSlide: 26.5 mm and 46.5 mm;
- extrusion 65 mm longer than the X MakerSlide: 29.0 mm and 49.0 mm.
For example, kits with 375 mm X come with 440 mm extrusion, so drill 29 mm and 49 mm from each end; kits with 750 mm X come with 810 mm extrusion, so drill 26.5 mm and 46.5 mm from each end.