EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Belt

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For this step, you need one belt tensioner and one screw from Pack 11, and the X belt from Pack 12. The X belt is 250 mm longer than your X axis. You should have tapped the lone hole of the belt tensioner.

NEMA 17 Motors

Belt-2-01.jpg

Insert the belt about 60 mm into the slot nearest the tapped hole, teeth facing away from the hole.


Belt-2-02.jpg

Thread the belt through the third slot.


Belt-2-03.jpg

Thread the belt back through the second slot.


Belt-2-04.jpg

Pressing on the small loop between the second and third slot with a finger, pull on the long end of the belt, guiding the short end into the first slot too.


Belt-2-05.jpg

The result should look like this.


Belt-2-06.jpg

Thread the free end of the belt through the top slot of the belt anchor, teeth down.


Belt-2-07.jpg

Route the belt under the idlers and over and around the belt pulley. Thread it through the top slot of the opposite belt anchor. Make sure the tensioner at the other end is flush with the anchor plate. Pull on the free end of the belt to take up all the slack, and mark the belt where it exits the slot. (Permanent marker leaves a mark visible in good light — even black on black.)


Belt-2-08.jpg

Take the belt off the belt pulley so that you have more belt to work with. Slide it in a little more.


Belt-2-09.jpg

Thread the belt through the third slot of the belt anchor.


Belt-2-10.jpg

Thread the belt back through the slot between the other two.


Belt-2-11.jpg

Line up the belt so that there's about 12 mm (six teeth) between the bottom slot and the mark on the belt. Holding the loop on the other side of the anchor with a finger, pull back on the belt, guiding the end so that it goes into the first slot. Check that the mark lines up with the top slot again. If it doesn't, loosen the belt, adjust its position in the second and third slots, and repeat.


Belt-2-12.jpg

It should look like this from the other side, although your belt may be a little longer. You can trim it once you've tensioned the belt satisfactorily.

Put the belt back on the idlers and pulley. It's easier to do the belt pulley first, then the idlers. If it's not possible to put the belt back on the pulley and idlers because it's too tight, redo the looping through the belt anchor, giving the belt 2–4 mm of extra slack (1–2 teeth). If the belt has too much slack, redo the looping to take some up. The belt should be as short as possible while still able to be put back on the idlers and pulley.

Put one M5 × 14 mm screw in the top hole of the belt tensioner, and tighten it to force the tensioner apart from the anchor plate. This tightens the belt. The belt should be reasonably taut, but do not overdo it — the tensioner is tougher than the belt! Too tight a belt results in excessive friction, and premature wear of the belt and the bearings of the motor. However, a loose belt reduces precision, because it's a source of backlash, and can even skip teeth under load.

NEMA 23 Motors

Belt-3-01.jpg

Insert the belt about 60 mm into the slot nearest the tapped hole, teeth facing toward the hole.


Belt-3-02.jpg

Thread the belt through the third slot.


Belt-3-03.jpg

Thread the belt back through the second slot.


Belt-3-04.jpg

Pressing on the small loop between the second and third slot with a finger, pull on the long end of the belt, guiding the short end into the first slot too.


Belt-3-05.jpg

The result should look like this.


Belt-3-06.jpg

Thread the free end of the belt through the third slot from the top of the belt anchor, teeth down.


Belt-3-07.jpg

Route the belt under the idlers and over and around the belt pulley. Thread it through the third slot from the top of the opposite belt anchor. Make sure the tensioner at the other end is flush with the anchor plate. Pull on the free end of the belt to take up all the slack, and mark the belt where it exits the slot. (Permanent marker leaves a mark visible in good light — even black on black.)


Belt-3-08.jpg

Take the belt off the belt pulley so that you have more belt to work with. Slide it in a little more. Copy the mark to the other side of the belt too.


Belt-3-09.jpg

Thread the belt through the top slot of the belt anchor.


Belt-3-10.jpg

Thread the belt back through the middle slot.


Belt-3-11.jpg

Line up the belt so that there's about 12 mm (six teeth) between the top slot and the mark on the belt. Pressing on the small loop on the other side of the anchor with a finger, pull back on the belt, guiding the end so that it goes into the third slot. Check that the mark lines up with the third slot again. If it doesn't, loosen the belt, adjust its position in the first and second slots, and repeat.


Belt-3-12.jpg

It should look like this from the other side, although your belt may be a little longer. You can trim it once you've tensioned the belt satisfactorily.

Put the belt back on the idlers and pulley. It's easier to do the belt pulley first, then the idlers. If it's not possible to put the belt back on the pulley and idlers because it's too tight, redo the looping through the belt anchor, giving the belt 2–4 mm of extra slack (1–2 teeth). If the belt has too much slack, redo the looping to take some up. The belt should be as short as possible while still able to be put back on the idlers and pulley.

Put one M5 × 14 mm screw in the bottom hole of the belt tensioner, and tighten it to force the tensioner apart from the anchor plate. This tightens the belt. The belt should be reasonably taut, but do not overdo it — the tensioner is tougher than the belt! Too tight a belt results in excessive friction, and premature wear of the belt and the bearings of the motor. However, a loose belt reduces precision, because it's a source of backlash, and can even skip teeth under load.

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