Amber Spyglass Ltd - User contributions [en]

Steps per mm

2021-02-24T01:49:53Z

Admin:

When setting up GRBL, it requires a ''steps per mm'' value for each axis.

To move your motors, GRBL (running on the Arduino) generates electrical pulses on the "STEP" input of the drivers. To move one millimetre, it will generate as many pulses as your ''steps per mm'' setting. So how many pulses per mm?

In the old days, each pulse would turn the motor one step. The motor driver did this by flipping the direction of the current in one of the two windings of the motor; the next pulse would flip the polarity of the other winding, the next one would flip the first one again, and so on. The order of the polarity flips controls the direction of rotation. Common step sizes are 1.8° (200 steps per revolution) and 0.9° (400 steps per revolution). That means there are 200 (or 400) equally spaced positions at which the shaft of your motor can sit, and each step pulse tells the motor to turn to the next position.

Modern drivers, however, support ''microstepping''. This feature gives the driver finer control over the winding currents, beyond full-on and full-on-backwards. By using this finer control, a microstepping driver can position a hybrid stepper motor ''between'' steps. For instance, 8× microstepping (also written 1/8) divides each step into 8 equal intervals. Each pulse causes the motor to move 1/8 of a full step, so a 200 step-per-revolution motor takes 1600 pulses (microsteps) for a complete revolution. Microstepping dramatically increases the positioning resolution, but it does not increase the absolute positioning accuracy against a load. A 1.8°-per-step motor at 8× microstepping is not the same as a 0.9°-per-step motor at 4× microstepping, even though both need 1600 pulses per revolution: assuming the same torque rating and the same load, the latter has half the error (deviation from the commanded position). In other words, microstepping increases precision, but not accuracy. Microstepping does not change the torque the motor can generate, but it makes motion smoother and quieter, which is good even if the extra resolution is not needed. There is very little benefit beyond 16×, because the absolute positioning error due to load and ''sticktion'' makes the finer positioning resolution irrelevant. That said, drivers exist that can do 256× microstepping, or more, but there are very few applications where that is useful.

The name ''steps per mm'' in GRBL is confusing because it actually refers to the microstep pulses, not full steps. It should really be ''pulses per mm'', or maybe ''microsteps per mm''. I'll use the former — it's clearer.

You would probably use the same type of motor and the same type of drive on the X and Y axes. That's not an hard requirement, but it makes sense. However, if your machine has two motors on the same axis (usually the Y), those two ''must'' be of the same type. Your Z axis is likely different; even if it's the same motor as the X and Y, the drive is likely different. So you need to calculate a ''steps per mm'' setting for the X and Y axes, and a different ''steps per mm'' setting for the Z axis.

As an example, assume 400 step-per-revolution (0.9°-per-step) motors on all axes, with X and Y set to 16× microstepping and the Z axis driver to 4× microstepping.

If you have a standard eShapeoko of recent vintage, your X and Y axes are belt-driven, with 20-tooth GT2 pulleys. The pitch of GT2 belt is 2 mm (the ''2'' in the name), so one turn of that pulley moves the carriage 40 mm. Your motor driver needs 16 × 400 = 6400 pulses per turn. So, to advance 1 mm, it needs 6400 / 40 = 160 pulses.

On the Z axis, the stock eShapeoko has a Tr 8 × 2 screw. That has a pitch of 2 mm (again, the ''2'' in the name), meaning that one turn of the Z motor moves that axis only 2 mm. At 4× microstepping, the Z motor driver needs 4 × 400 = 1600 pulses per turn, which gives 1600 / 2 = 800 pulses per mm.

In short:

==== X and Y axes ====

start with: microstepping: 16 pulses / step
multiply by: motor: 400 steps / rev
divide by: pulley: 20 teeth / rev
divide by: belt pitch: 2 mm / tooth

gives: GRBL setting: 160 pulses / mm

==== Z axis ====

start with: microstepping: 4 pulses / step
multiply by: motor: 400 steps / rev
divide by: screw pitch: 2 mm / rev

gives: GRBL setting: 800 pulses / mm

Please change these calculations to suit your microstep settings, your motors, and the details of your drive method. For the eShapeoko, 16× microstepping on X and Y and 4× on the Z is a good starting point. If you have 400 step-per-revolution motors, X and Y can also be 8×. On the Z axis, if you have a 200 step-per-revolution motor, or you need finer vertical positioning, 8× works well too. Too high microstepping limits the maximum speed (GRBL can generate only about 30,000 pulses per second) and does not improve anything.

Steps per mm

2021-02-24T01:34:18Z

Admin:

When setting up GRBL, it requires a ''steps per mm'' value for each axis.

To move your motors, GRBL (running on the Arduino) generates electrical pulses on the "STEP" input of the drivers. To move one millimetre, it will generate as many pulses as your ''steps per mm'' setting. So how many pulses per mm?

In the old days, each pulse would turn the motor one step. It did this by flipping the direction of the current in one of its two windings; the next pulse would flip the polarity of the other winding, then the first one again, and so on. The order of the polarity flips controls the direction of rotation. Common step sizes are 1.8° (200 steps per revolution) and 0.9° (400 steps per revolution). That means there are 200 (or 400) equally spaced positions at which the shaft of your motor can sit, and each step pulse tells the motor to turn to the next position.

Modern drivers, however, support ''microstepping''. This feature gives the driver finer control over the winding currents, beyond full-on and full-on-backwards. By using this finer control, a microstepping driver can position a hybrid stepper motor ''between'' steps. For instance, 8× microstepping (also written 1/8) divides each step into 8 equal intervals. Each pulse causes the motor to move 1/8 of a full step, so a 200 step-per-revolution motor takes 1600 pulses (microsteps) for a complete revolution. Microstepping dramatically increases the positioning resolution, but it does not increase the absolute positioning accuracy against a load. A 1.8°-per-step motor at 8× microstepping is not the same as a 0.9°-per-step motor at 4× microstepping, even though both need 1600 pulses per revolution: assuming the same torque rating and the same load, the latter has half the error (deviation from the commanded position). In other words, microstepping increases precision, but not accuracy. Microstepping does not change the torque the motor can generate, but it makes motion smoother and quieter, which is good even if the extra resolution is not needed. There is very little benefit beyond 16×, because the absolute positioning error due to load and ''sticktion'' makes the finer positioning resolution irrelevant. That said, drivers exist that can do 256× microstepping, or more, but there are very few applications where that is useful.

The name ''steps per mm'' in GRBL is confusing because it actually refers to the microstep pulses, not full steps. It should really be ''pulses per mm'', or maybe ''microsteps per mm''. I'll use the former — it's clearer.

You would probably use the same type of motor and the same type of drive on the X and Y axes. That's not an hard requirement, but it makes sense. However, if your machine has two motors on the same axis (usually the Y), those two ''must'' be of the same type. Your Z axis is likely different; even if it's the same motor as the X and Y, the drive is likely different. So you need to calculate a ''steps per mm'' setting for the X and Y axes, and a different ''steps per mm'' setting for the Z axis.

As an example, assume 400 step-per-revolution (0.9°-per-step) motors on all axes, with X and Y set to 16× microstepping and the Z axis driver to 4× microstepping.

If you have a standard eShapeoko of recent vintage, your X and Y axis pulleys have 20 teeth. The pitch of GT2 belt is 2 mm (the ''2'' in the name), so one turn of that pulley moves the carriage 40 mm. Your motor driver needs 16 × 400 = 6400 pulses per turn. So, to advance 1 mm, it needs 6400 / 40 = 160 pulses per mm.

On the Z axis, the stock eShapeoko has a Tr 8 × 2 screw. That's a pitch of 2 mm (again, the ''2'' in the name). One turn of the Z motor moves that axis only 2 mm. The Z motor driver needs 4 × 400 = 1600 pulses per turn, which gives 1600 / 2 = 800 pulses per mm.

In short:

==== X and Y axes ====

start with: microstepping: 16 pulses / step
multiply by: motor: 400 steps / rev
divide by: pulley: 20 teeth / rev
divide by: belt pitch: 2 mm / tooth

gives: GRBL setting: 160 pulses / mm

==== Z axis ====

start with: microstepping: 4 pulses / step
multiply by: motor: 400 steps / rev
divide by: screw pitch: 2 mm / rev

gives: GRBL setting: 800 pulses / mm

Please change these calculations to suit your microstep settings, your motors, and the details of your drive method. For the eShapeoko, 16× microstepping on X and Y and 4× on the Z is a good starting point. If you have 400 step-per-revolution motors, X and Y can also be 8×. On the Z axis, if you have a 200 step-per-revolution motor, or you need finer vertical positioning, 8× works well too. Too high microstepping limits the maximum speed (GRBL can generate only about 30,000 pulses per second) and does not improve anything.

Steps per mm

2021-02-24T01:32:38Z

Admin:

When setting up GRBL, it requires a ''steps per mm'' value for each axis.

To move your motors, GRBL (running on the Arduino) generates electrical pulses on the "STEP" input of the drivers. To move one millimetre, it will generate as many pulses as your ''steps per mm'' setting. So how many pulses per mm?

In the old days, each pulse would turn the motor one step. It did this by flipping the direction of the current in one of its two windings; the next pulse would flip the polarity of the other winding, then the first one again, and so on. The order of the polarity flips controls the direction of rotation. Common step sizes are 1.8° (200 steps per revolution) and 0.9° (400 steps per revolution). That means there are 200 (or 400) equally spaced positions at which the shaft of your motor can sit, and each step pulse tells the motor to turn to the next position.

Modern drivers, however, support ''microstepping''. This feature gives the driver finer control over the winding currents, beyond full-on and full-on-backwards. By using this finer control, a microstepping driver can position a hybrid stepper motor ''between'' steps. For instance, 8× microstepping (also written 1/8) divides each step into 8 equal intervals. Each pulse causes the motor to move 1/8 of a full step, so a 200 step-per-revolution motor takes 1600 pulses (microsteps) for a complete revolution. Microstepping dramatically increases the positioning resolution, but it does not increase the absolute positioning accuracy against a load. A 1.8°-per-step motor at 8× microstepping is not the same as a 0.9°-per-step motor at 4× microstepping, even though both need 1600 pulses per revolution: assuming the same torque rating and the same load, the latter has half the error (deviation from the commanded position). In other words, microstepping increases precision, but not accuracy. Microstepping does not change the torque the motor can generate, but it makes motion smoother and quieter, which is good even if the extra resolution is not needed. There is very little benefit beyond 16×, because the absolute positioning error due to load and ''sticktion'' makes the finer positioning resolution irrelevant. That said, drivers exist that can do 256× microstepping, or more, but there are very few applications where that is useful.

The name ''steps per mm'' in GRBL is confusing because it actually refers to the microstep pulses, not full steps. It should really be ''pulses per mm'', or maybe ''microsteps per mm''. I'll use the former — it's clearer.

You would probably use the same type of motor and the same type of drive on the X and Y axes. That's not an hard requirement, but it makes sense. However, if your machine has two motors on the same axis (usually the Y), those two ''must'' be of the same type. Your Z axis is likely different; even if it's the same motor as the X and Y, the drive is likely different. So you need to calculate a ''steps per mm'' setting for the X and Y axes, and a different ''steps per mm'' setting for the Z axis.

As an example, assume 400 step-per-revolution (0.9°-per-step) motors on all axes, with X and Y set to 16× microstepping and the Z axis driver to 4× microstepping.

If you have a standard eShapeoko of recent vintage, your X and Y axis pulleys have 20 teeth. The pitch of GT2 belt is 2 mm (the ''2'' in the name), so one turn of that pulley moves the carriage 40 mm. Your motor driver needs 16 × 400 = 6400 pulses per turn. So, to advance 1 mm, it needs 6400 / 40 = 160 pulses per mm.

On the Z axis, the stock eShapeoko has a Tr 8 × 2 screw. That's a pitch of 2 mm (again, the ''2'' in the name). One turn of the Z motor moves that axis only 2 mm. The Z motor driver needs 4 × 400 = 1600 pulses per turn, which gives 1600 / 2 = 800 pulses per mm.

In short:

==== X and Y axes ====

start with: microstepping: 16 pulses / step
multiply by: motor: 400 steps / rev
divide by: pulley: 20 teeth / rev
divide by: belt pitch: 2 mm / tooth

gives: GRBL setting: 160 pulses / mm

==== Z axis ====

start with: microstepping: 4 pulses / step
multiply by: motor: 400 steps / rev
divide by: screw pitch: 2 mm / rev

gives: GRBL setting: 800 pulses / mm

Please change these calculations to suit your settings. For the eShapeoko, 16× microstepping on X and Y and 4× on the Z is a good starting point. If you have 400 step-per-revolution motors, X and Y can also be 8×. On the Z axis, if you have a 200 step-per-revolution motor, or you need finer vertical positioning, 8× works well too. Too high microstepping limits the maximum speed (GRBL can generate only about 30,000 pulses per second) and does not improve anything.

Steps per mm

2021-02-24T01:18:08Z

Admin: Created page with "When setting up GRBL, it requires a ''steps per mm'' value for each axis. To move your motors, GRBL (running on the Arduino) generates electrical pulses on the "STEP" input o..."

When setting up GRBL, it requires a ''steps per mm'' value for each axis.

To move your motors, GRBL (running on the Arduino) generates electrical pulses on the "STEP" input of the drivers. To move one millimetre, it will generate as many pulses as your ''steps per mm'' setting. So how many pulses per mm?

In the old days, each pulse would turn the motor one step. It did this by flipping the direction of the current in one of its two windings; the next pulse would flip the polarity of the other winding, then the first one again, and so on. The order of the polarity flips controls the direction of rotation. Common step sizes are 1.8° (200 steps per revolution) and 0.9° (400 steps per revolution). That means there are 200 (or 400) equally spaced positions at which the shaft of your motor can sit, and each step pulse tells the motor to turn to the next position.

Modern drivers, however, support ''microstepping''. This feature gives the driver finer control over the winding currents, beyond full-on and full-on-backwards. By using this finer control, a microstepping driver can position a hybrid stepper motor ''between'' steps. For instance, 8× microstepping (also written 1/8) divides each step into 8 equal intervals. Each pulse causes the motor to move 1/8 of a full step, so a 200 step-per-revolution motor takes 1600 pulses (microsteps) for a complete revolution. Microstepping dramatically increases the positioning resolution, but it does not increase the absolute positioning accuracy against a load. A 1.8°-per-step motor at 8× microstepping is not the same as a 0.9°-per-step motor at 4× microstepping, even though both need 1600 pulses per revolution: assuming the same torque rating and the same load, the latter has half the deviation. In other words, microstepping increases precision, but not accuracy. Microstepping does not change the torque the motor can generate, but it makes motion smoother and quieter, which is good even if the extra resolution is not needed. There is very little benefit beyond 16×, because the absolute positioning error due to load and ''sticktion'' makes the finer positioning resolution irrelevant. That said, drivers exist that can do 256× microstepping, or more, but there are very few applications where that is useful.

The name ''steps per mm'' in GRBL is confusing because it actually refers to the microstep pulses, not full steps. It should really be ''pulses per mm'', or maybe ''microsteps per mm''. I'll use the former — it's clearer.

You would probably use the same type of motor and the same type of drive on the X and Y axes. That's not an hard requirement, but it makes sense. However, if your machine has two motors on the same axis (usually the Y), those two ''must'' be of the same type. Your Z axis is likely different; even if it's the same motor as the X and Y, the drive is likely different. So you need to calculate a ''steps per mm'' setting for the X and Y axes, and a different ''steps per mm'' setting for the Z axis.

As an example, assume 400 step-per-revolution (0.9°-per-step) motors on all axes, with X and Y set to 16× microstepping and the Z axis driver to 4× microstepping.

If you have a standard eShapeoko of recent vintage, your X and Y axis pulleys have 20 teeth. The pitch of GT2 belt is 2 mm (the ''2'' in the name), so one turn of that pulley moves the carriage 40 mm. Your motor driver needs 16 × 400 = 6400 pulses per turn. So, to advance 1 mm, it needs 6400 / 40 = 160 pulses per mm.

On the Z axis, the stock eShapeoko has a Tr 8 × 2 screw. That's a pitch of 2 mm (again, the ''2'' in the name). One turn of the Z motor moves that axis only 2 mm. The Z motor driver needs 4 × 400 = 1600 pulses per turn, which gives 1600 / 2 = 800 pulses per mm.

In short:

==== X and Y axes ====

start with: microstepping: 16 pulses / step
multiply by: motor: 400 steps / rev
divide by: pulley: 20 teeth / rev
divide by: belt pitch: 2 mm / tooth

gives: GRBL setting: 160 pulses / mm

==== Z axis ====

start with: microstepping: 4 pulses / step
multiply by: motor: 400 steps / rev
divide by: screw pitch: 2 mm / rev

gives: GRBL setting: 800 pulses / mm

GAUPS 1.1 Instructions

2021-02-24T00:10:39Z

Admin:

== Open Source ==

GAUPS is derived from Bart Dring's open-source [http://buildlog.net/ Buildlog.net] Arduino-compatible Stepper Motor Driver Shield rev 3. Thank you, Bart!

GAUPS is open-source hardware, released under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 License. KiCAD files will be available here soon.

[[File:GAUPS_1.1_stepper_shield_complete_system.jpg|center|600px|thumb|Nearly complete eShapeoko electronics with GAUPS 1.1 and Arduino Uno]]

== Assembly ==

It's easiest to assemble the board in the order of component height, leaving the tallest last. For the parts with long leads, trim them as soon as you've soldered them (do not trim the Arduino headers, obviously). The instructions assume the board is held with the driver labels ("X AXIS" etc) the right way up, as shown.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Step
!Part Image and Instructions
!Board Image
|-
!rowspan="2" | 1
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_R1.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.1_Assembly_01_R1.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder R1 (10 kΩ resistor). Color code: [[File:Ra.png|link=]][[File:Rb1.png|link=]][[File:Rc.png|link=]][[File:Rd0.png|link=]][[File:Re.png|link=]][[File:Rd0.png|link=]][[File:Re.png|link=]][[File:Rd2.png|link=]][[File:Rf.png|link=]][[File:Rb1.png|link=]][[File:Rg.png|link=]] (1%) or [[File:Ra.png|link=]][[File:Rb1.png|link=]][[File:Rc.png|link=]][[File:Rd0.png|link=]][[File:Re.png|link=]][[File:Rd3.png|link=]][[File:Rf.png|link=]][[File:RbG.png|link=]][[File:Rg.png|link=]] (5%).
|-
!rowspan="2" | 2
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_SW1.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.1_Assembly_02_SW1.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder SW1 (12-way DIP switch). Orient it numbers to the left, "ON" text in the upper-right corner. The 1, 2 and 3 labels will match the 1, 2 and 3 silkscreen labels for the A axis.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 3
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_SW2.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.1_Assembly_03_SW2.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder SW2 (push-button), taking care not to overheat it.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 4
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_C1-C4.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.1_Assembly_04_C1-C4.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder C1, C2, C3, C4 (47 µF 35 V capacitors, or, in the 40 V version, 22 µF 50 V), paying attention to the orientation. Install with the negative terminal (shorter lead, marked with a stripe on the body of the capacitor) toward the middle of the board.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 5
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_C5-C8.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.1_Assembly_05_C5-C8.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder C5, C6, C7, C8 (100 nF capacitors). These are not polarized, so orientation doesn't matter.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 6
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_U1-U4.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.1_Assembly_06_U1-U4.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder the eight 8-way female headers for the drivers.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 7
|[[File:GAUPS_1.1_J1-J4.jpg|300px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.1_Assembly_07_J1-J4.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder the 6-way, two 8-way, and one 10-way Arduino stacking headers, taking care to not to deposit solder on the long pins (except where they meet the PCB, of course). Make sure the pins are straight and parallel before soldering them.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 8
|align="center" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_J1,_J2,_J5_apart.jpg|200px]][[File:GAUPS_1.0_J3,_J4_apart.jpg|200px]] [[File:GAUPS_1.0_J1,_J2,_J5_joined.jpg|200px]][[File:GAUPS_1.0_J3,_J4_joined.jpg|200px]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.1_Assembly_08_P1-P5.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Join one 2-way and two 4-way screw terminals, by sliding the little dovetails into the slots. Solder them as P5, P1 and P2, with the openings for the wires toward the outside of the board. Join the remaining two 4-way screw terminals. Solder them as P3 and P4. Check all the soldering, remove any loose bits of solder, insert into the Arduino Uno, and you're done!
|}

== Driver Orientation ==

{{warning|'''Please pay attention to driver orientation!''' A driver inserted backwards will be destroyed instantly when the power is turned on.}}

Driver pin VMOT (motor supply voltage) is marked with an arrow on the silkscreen (please note that this is different from the beta version). The motor outputs (1A, 1B, 2A, 2B) face the respective screw terminals. The electrolytic capacitor is near the VMOT pin, and the yellow ceramic capacitor is near the VDD pin. The digital inputs are toward the middle of the board.

{{warning|Two drivers (X and Y) are oriented one way, the other two (Z and A) the other way.}}

{{warning|Adjust the motor current before applying power for the first time. The trimpots on the drivers do not come pre-set to any particular position. Please turn them down (almost all the way anti-clockwise) before applying power. Once you've applied power, increase the current carefully. On some Pololu drivers, the range of the trimpot exceeds the allowable value for the driver chip, and turning it too far clockwise can cause the chip to explode.}}

== Solder Bridges ==

[[File:GAUPS 1.1 A driver mode.jpg|170px|right|thumb|Solder bridges for A driver mode]]
=== Dual-Y or 4-Axis Operation ===

For Dual-Y operation, the A driver takes the same control signals (STEP and DIR) as the Y driver, acting as a second Y driver instead of a fourth independent axis. This is the default configuration, and you don't need to do anything to use it.

For 4-axis operation (or spindle relay in the A axis slot, instead of a driver), STEP and DIR for the A driver come from Arduino pins D12 and D13. In both columns, cut the trace joining the top and middle pad, and bridge the middle and bottom pad with solder.

It is unlikely that you will need to change from the default configuration. As of yet,
GRBL supports only three axes, and spindle control relays in the form of Pololu-compatible
modules are very rare.

[[File:GAUPS 1.1 logic power mode.jpg|170px|right|thumb|Solder bridges for logic voltage selection]]
=== Supply Voltage ===

By default, the board uses the IOREF pin available on all R3 Arduino boards.
The Arduino connects
IOREF to either 5 V or 3.3 V, depending on which supply voltage it uses. For example, an
Arduino Uno connects IOREF to 5 V, while an Arduino Due connects it to 3.3 V.

For older Arduino boards that do not have an IOREF pin, you will have to bridge
one of the 3.3 V or 5 V solder bridges on the back of the board, as applicable. To avoid
disasters if the GAUPS is later plugged into an R3 Arduino, also cut the trace across the
IOREF solder bridge.

Since the R3 design has been the standard Arduino for a number of years, it is unlikely
that you will need to make any changes.

== Switch Settings ==

DIP switches are OFF to the left (the side of the switch with the numbers), ON to the right (the side labelled "ON").

Microstepping is controlled independently for each of the four drivers.
Each driver has three switches associated with it.
The silkscreen shows which switches apply to which driver.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!colspan="4"|SW1 switch
|
!colspan="5"|''A4988 and DRV8825''
!''A4988''
!colspan="2"|''DRV8825''
|
!colspan="5"|''DRV8834''
|-
!X axis
!Y axis
!Z axis
!A axis
|
!Pin name
!1 ×
!2 ×
!4 ×
!8 ×
!16 ×
!16 ×
!32 ×
|
!Pin name
!2 ×
!4 ×
!16 ×
!32 ×
|-
!10
!4
!7
!1
|
!''MS1''
|OFF     
|      ON
|OFF
|      ON
|      ON
|OFF
|      ON
|
!''M0''
|      ON
|OFF
|      ON
|OFF
|-
!11
!5
!8
!2
|
!''MS2''
|OFF
|OFF
|      ON
|      ON
|      ON
|OFF
|      ON
|
!''M1''
|OFF
|OFF     
|      ON
|      ON
|-
!12
!6
!9
!3
|
!''MS3''
|OFF
|OFF
|OFF
|OFF
|      ON
|      ON
|      ON
|
!''(CFG)''
|colspan="4" align="center"|''not used''
|}

For instance, to set a DRV8825 driver on the Z axis to 8 × microstepping,
set switches 7 on, 8 on, 9 off. In the Dual Y configuration, it's simplest to
use the same type of driver and motor for both the Y axes (Y and A), and use
the same microstepping configuration for both (switches 1–3 same as switches 4–6).

Note that it is not possible to select all microstepping combinations for the DRV8834
low-voltage stepper motor driver (1 × and 8 × would require pin
M0 to be held low).

=== gShield/grblShield Compatibility ===

To make a GAUPS behave exactly like a gShield (or an older grblShield with the Z-axis hack),
so that one can use the same settings for GRBL, set X and Y to 8 × microstepping,
and Z to 2 ×:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!1
|      ON
|-
!2
|      ON
|-
!3
|OFF
|-
!4
|      ON
|-
!5
|      ON
|-
!6
|OFF
|-
!7
|      ON
|-
!8
|OFF
|-
!9
|OFF
|-
!10
|      ON
|-
!11
|      ON
|-
!12
|OFF
|}

== Software configuration ==

This depends on the software you run on the Arduino.

If using GRBL 1.1, please see the [https://github.com/gnea/grbl/wiki/Grbl-v1.1-Configuration GRBL configuration page]. You can also read [[Steps per mm|a brief explanation]] of the steps-per-mm value.

== Connections ==

The motor screw terminals are connected to the driver outputs nearest to them, in the same order.

The motor power supply input is P5, the two bottom screw terminals in the block of ten on the left side of the board. Positive is next to the X axis motor terminals, negative at the bottom edge of the board. Please note that this is different from the beta version. The polarity is marked on the silkscreen on the back of the board (there was no room on the front).

{{warning|'''Do not make or break any connections while the board or the Arduino are powered.''' There is a high risk of destroying the drivers and/or the Arduino.}}

[[File:GAUPS 1.1 wiring.jpg|none|600px|thumb|GAUPS 1.1 Example Configuration]]

This image (click on it to enlarge) shows an example configuration:
* Four drivers and four motors
* Dual-Y (two Y motors, each with its own driver)
* Pololu DRV8825 purple high-current drivers (note that other driver modules may have the trimpot in a different location, so do not use it to decide the driver module orientation. Always check the pin labels).
* Heatsinks

Note that the microstepping is not configured: the DIP switch is in its factory default configuration, corresponding to full stepping on all axes (not recommended).

[[File:GAUPS 1.1 PCB Bottom.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Bottom of GAUPS 1.1 PCB, showing supply polarity]]
Also, when using GRBL 0.8 or 0.9 with the "invert mask" set to 0,
any Pololu drivers, and the motors we carry in our
store, wired as shown, for a move in the positive direction of each
axis, the motors turn as follows (as viewed looking into the shaft):
{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Axis
!Motor
!Axis Positive Direction
!Motor Direction
|-
!X
!
|Right
|Counter-clockwise
|-
!rowspan="2" | Y
!Left (Y driver)
|rowspan="2" |Toward the back
|Counter-clockwise
|-
!Right (A driver)
|Clockwise
|-
!Z
!
|Up
|Clockwise
|}

This is the standard direction of travel for a dual-motor dual-Y drive eShapeoko
with any of the standard eShapeoko belt configurations (teeth down, belt going
under the idler wheels and over the belt pulley). This is also valid for a
Shapeoko with any of the belt mods that have the belt facing teeth down. For
the original Shapeoko configuration (belt teeth up, going over the idler wheels
and under the belt pulley) and any other teeth up configuration, reverse the
direction of X and Y motors (by reversing the connections,
black–green–blue–red instead of
red–blue–green–black).

Note that not all motors from all manufacturers turn in the same direction when
wired the same, although this seems to be the most common case. If your motor
has different color wires, always determine the correct pairing before wiring
the motors, to avoid damage to the drivers. Any configuration will work, as long
as the wires in each pair are next to each other (pins 1 and 2 one pair,
pins 3 and 4 another pair).

Also note that driver modules other than Pololu A4988 and DRV8825 may turn the motors
in the opposite direction, too, and the direction can also be changed in firmware.

== Power Supply ==

The choice of voltage depends on the driver modules. The kit of parts, as
supplied, has capacitors rated at 35 V, so that's the maximum voltage. However,
an alternative is supplied, with capacitors rated for 50 V. To keep the same
form factor, these capacitors are smaller (22 µF instead of 47 µF).

With A4988 drivers, the maximum voltage is 35 V, but EMF induced in the motor
during braking can raise the supply voltage, so we do not recommend using more
than 30 V. The DRV8825 drivers are rated to 45 V, but, for the same reason,
we do not recommend more than 40 V (provided that you are using capacitors rated
50 V or more).

A4988 and DRV8825 both work from 12 V, but the most popular voltage for them
is 24 V. 19 V is also popular, because it's the typical voltage of a laptop
power supply, and many people have one of those lying around.

The DRV8834 driver operates from 2.5 V to 10.8 V, so it's ideal for low-voltage
applications.

== Part List ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Part
!Count
!Description
!Manufacturer
!Part Number
|-
|PCB
|1
|GAUPS 1.1 PCB, dual-side 1.6 mm FR4, 2 oz copper, through-plated, ENIG, RoHS
|Amber Spyglass Ltd
|—
|-
|R1
|1
|Resistor, 10 kΩ 0.125 W, metal film
|Multicomp
|MF12 10K
|-
|C1–C4
|4
|Aluminium electrolytic capacitor, 47 µF 35 V, long life (5000 hours @ 105°C), radial, 2.5 mm lead spacing, ∅ 8 mm, 5 mm tall
|Rubycon
|35ML47MEFC8X5
|-
|C5–C8
|4
|Ceramic capacitor, 100 nF 50 V, X7R dielectric, 0.2" lead spacing
|Multicomp
|MCRR50104X7RK0050
|-
|SW1
|1
|Low-profile 12-way DIP switch, 0.1" pitch, 0.3" wide
|Multicomp *
|MCEI-12
|-
|SW2
|1
|Tactile switch, 6 mm
|Panasonic
|EVQPVG05K
|-
|U1–U4
|8
|8-way single-row female 0.1" pitch header, straight
|Multicomp *
|2212S-08SG-85
|-
|J1, J3
|2
|8-way single-row long pin (15 mm) female 0.1" pitch headers, straight
|Samtec *
|SSQ-108-04-F-S
|-
|J2
|1
|6-way single-row long pin (15 mm) female 0.1" pitch headers, straight
|Samtec *
|SSQ-106-04-F-S
|-
|J4
|1
|10-way single-row long pin (15 mm) female 0.1" pitch headers, straight
|Samtec *
|SSQ-110-04-F-S
|-
|P1–P4
|4
|4-way side-entry PCB screw terminal, 5 mm pitch
|Camden Boss
|CTB5202/4
|-
|P5
|1
|2-way side-entry PCB screw terminal, 5 mm pitch
|Camden Boss
|CTB5202/2
|}

For most components, numerous equivalent parts exist from various manufacturers.
The given manufacturers and part numbers are just examples of compatible parts. However, except
where marked with an asterisk, the supplied parts in our kit are exactly those listed here (those
with an asterisk are generic equivalents). This is especially important for the long-life
electrolytic capacitors of the correct form factor, and for the good quality screw terminals.
Also important are the long (15 mm pins) Arduino headers; the typical Arduino headers with
10–12 mm pins are not tall enough for the solder joints on the back of the shield to
clear the Arduino USB connector, and insulation is required.

We reserve the right to substitute parts without notice.

== Schematic ==
[[File:GAUPS 1.1 schematic.png|900px]]

Main Page

2021-01-21T17:11:27Z

Admin:

== eShapeoko ==

The eShapeoko is an affordable three-axis desktop CNC milling machine. It is a clone of Edward Ford's tremendously successful Shapeoko 1 and 2, with some changes. Much of the low-cost aspect we owe to Bart Dring, who invented MakerSlide, a simple and inexpensive linear bearing system that doubles as structural support.

eShapeoko is sold in kit form. For now, only a [http://store.amberspyglass.co.uk/eshapeoko-mechanical-kit.html Mechanical Kit] is available. In addition to that, you need four stepper motors, a power supply, and the electronics to drive the motors: please read [[EShapeoko Complete Kit|this guide]].

== Resources ==

[[V-wheel and Idler Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko FAQ]]

[[EShapeoko 1.6 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.6 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.6.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.6.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.5 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.5 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.5.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.5.0]
[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.5.1%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.5.1]

[[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.4.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.4.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.3 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.3.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.3.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.2 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.2 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.1%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.1], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.3%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.3], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.4%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.4]

[[EShapeoko Complete Kit]]

[[Camera Slider Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

[[Camera Slider Assembly Instructions]]

[[Motor Drivers]] (inlcuding GAUPS)

[https://github.com/amberspyglass/parts Part Drawings] (including eShapeoko 1.x and the camera slider)

Some information about [[Stepper Motors]]

=== Older Kits ===

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Dual-X Assembly Notes]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 NEMA23 upgrades]]

[http://blog.amberspyglass.co.uk/2013/12/20/eshapeoko-packing-list/eshapeoko-v1-1-packing-list/ EShapeoko 1.1 Packing List]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

We are adding more information here every now and then. In the meantime, a wealth of information and generous help await at the [http://shapeoko.com/forum/ Shapeoko forum].

The eShapeoko is based on the [http://shapeoko.com Shapeoko] by Edward Ford, and open-source project. The eShapeoko is designed by Cătălin Voinescu. It is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license.

Main Page

2021-01-21T17:11:05Z

Admin:

== eShapeoko ==

The eShapeoko is an affordable three-axis desktop CNC milling machine. It is a clone of Edward Ford's tremendously successful Shapeoko 1 and 2, with some changes. Much of the low-cost aspect we owe to Bart Dring, who invented MakerSlide, a simple and inexpensive linear bearing system that doubles as structural support.

eShapeoko is sold in kit form. For now, only a [http://store.amberspyglass.co.uk/eshapeoko-mechanical-kit.html Mechanical Kit] is available. In addition to that, you need four stepper motors, a power supply, and the electronics to drive the motors: please read [[EShapeoko Complete Kit|this guide]].

== Resources ==

[[V-wheel and Idler Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko FAQ]]

[[EShapeoko 1.6 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.6 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.5.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.6.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.5 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.5 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.5.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.5.0]
[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.5.1%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.5.1]

[[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.4.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.4.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.3 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.3.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.3.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.2 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.2 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.1%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.1], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.3%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.3], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.4%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.4]

[[EShapeoko Complete Kit]]

[[Camera Slider Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

[[Camera Slider Assembly Instructions]]

[[Motor Drivers]] (inlcuding GAUPS)

[https://github.com/amberspyglass/parts Part Drawings] (including eShapeoko 1.x and the camera slider)

Some information about [[Stepper Motors]]

=== Older Kits ===

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Dual-X Assembly Notes]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 NEMA23 upgrades]]

[http://blog.amberspyglass.co.uk/2013/12/20/eshapeoko-packing-list/eshapeoko-v1-1-packing-list/ EShapeoko 1.1 Packing List]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

We are adding more information here every now and then. In the meantime, a wealth of information and generous help await at the [http://shapeoko.com/forum/ Shapeoko forum].

The eShapeoko is based on the [http://shapeoko.com Shapeoko] by Edward Ford, and open-source project. The eShapeoko is designed by Cătălin Voinescu. It is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license.

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Carriage

2021-01-20T15:44:13Z

Admin:

For this step, you need the fourth motor plate, which will become the front of
the X carriage; the rear X motor plate, with the motor and idlers attached three
steps ago; and the contents of '''Pack 6'''.
You also need the bolted-together X rails from the previous step, the remaining
assembled V-wheels, and the Z rail.

{{Note|If you're assembling Version 1.6, please [[EShapeoko 1.6 Assembly Instructions|read this first]].}}

Take a deep breath...

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly X carriage front.png|frame|none|Front and middle of the X carriage]]

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly X carriage rear.png|frame|none|Rear of the X carriage (TO DO: update to show idlers and NEMA 17 motor in the correct position.)]]

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly X and Z V-wheels hole positions.png|thumb|right|x247px|Position of V-wheels on the X carriage, as seen from the front (red: fixed X V-wheels; blue: adjustable X V-wheels; yellow: fixed Z V-wheels; purple: adjustable Z V-wheels)]]
{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Item
!Part Number
!Part Description
!Count
|-
|1
|S5-70
|M5 70 mm cap screw
|2
|-
|2
|S5-90
|M5 90 mm cap screw
|6
|-
|3
|W5
|M5 washer (form A)
|48
|-
|4
|MES
|Eccentric spacer
|6
|-
|5
|W5B
|M5 washer (form B)
|8
|-
|6
|
|Assembled V-wheel
|12
|-
|7
|D5-16b
|M5 25.4 mm aluminium spacer
|12
|-
|8
|D5-04b
|M5 6.35 mm aluminium spacer
|2
|-
|9
|LMP
|Motor plate
|1
|-
|10
|N5
|M5 hex nut
|8
|-
|11
|
|Assembled rear X motor plate
|1
|}

Part 5 (shown in orange) is W5B (form B M5 washer), which is thinner (0.75 mm) than the
regular washers (0.95 mm). The thinner washers are packed in a separate bag, because
they are otherwise hard to tell apart (they are not painted orange in real life).
It is important to get the spacing of the X V-wheels exactly right, to match the distance
between the Vs of the MakerSlide, so please be careful to use the correct washers.

To assemble this, it's easiest to do the front plate first, one bolt at a time, following
the top exploded drawing. Temporarily add a nut to hold those parts together. Do all
eight bolts, then lay the plate down, Z V-wheels down. Remove the nuts. Offer the rear
motor plate (the one with the motor and idlers), and lower it
on the bolts, guiding them into the correct holes. Finish by adding the eccentric spacers,
washers and nuts on the back of the carriage.

For reference, here's what goes on each bolt (two of each, eight total):
; A. Fixed X V-wheels (red): 70 mm screw • washer • front plate • thin washer • V-wheel • washer • washer • long spacer • thin washer • washer • V-wheel • washer • rear plate • washer • nut;
; B. Adjustable X V-wheels (blue): 90 mm screw • washer • eccentric spacer • front plate • thin washer • V-wheel • washer • washer • long spacer • thin washer • washer • V-wheel • washer • rear plate • eccentric spacer • washer • nut;
; C. Fixed Z V-wheels (yellow): 90 mm screw • washer • V-wheel • washer • short spacer • washer • front plate • washer • long spacer • long spacer • washer • rear plate • washer • nut;
; D. Adjustable Z V-wheels (purple): 90 mm screw • washer • V-wheel • washer • washer • eccentric spacer • front plate • washer • long spacer • long spacer • washer • rear plate • washer • nut.

Or, in table form:
{| class="wikitable" align="center"
|-
|colspan="2" rowspan="4"|
!colspan="2"|Z V-wheels
|-
!width="7.5em"|Fixed
!width="7.5em"|Adjustable
|-
!style="color:black; background-color:#FFCC00;"|C
!style="color:white; background-color:#8600D7;"|D
|-
|90 mm screw
|90 mm screw
|-
!colspan="2"|X V-wheels
|washer
|washer
|-
!width="7.5em"|Fixed
!width="7.5em"|Adjustable
|rowspan="2"|V-wheel
|rowspan="2"|V-wheel
|-
!style="color:white; background-color:#C80000;"|A
!style="color:white; background-color:#0080FF;"|B
|-
|rowspan="2"|
|90 mm screw
|washer
|washer
|-
|washer
|rowspan="2"|short spacer
|washer
|-
|70 mm screw
|rowspan="2"|eccentric spacer
|rowspan="2"|eccentric spacer
|-
|washer
|washer
|-
|colspan="4" style="color:white; background-color:#156F15;"|front plate
|-
|thin washer
|thin washer
|washer
|washer
|-
|height="3em"|V-wheel
|height="3em"|V-wheel
|rowspan="4"|long spacer
|rowspan="4"|long spacer
|-
|washer
|washer
|-
|washer
|washer
|-
|rowspan="2" height="9em"|long spacer
|rowspan="2" height="9em"|long spacer
|-
|rowspan="4"|long spacer
|rowspan="4"|long spacer
|-
|thin washer
|thin washer
|-
|washer
|washer
|-
|height="3em"|V-wheel
|height="3em"|V-wheel
|-
|washer
|washer
|washer
|washer
|-
|colspan="4" style="color:white; background-color:#156F15;"|rear plate
|-
|washer
|rowspan="2"|eccentric spacer
|washer
|washer
|-
|nut
|nut
|nut
|-
|rowspan="2"|
|washer
|rowspan="2" colspan="2"|
|-
|nut
|}

Note that what goes between the two plates is the same for bolts A and B, and also for bolts C and D.

If you have '''limit switches''', now is a good time to install them for the X axis.
It will be more difficult later, with the carriage riding on the rail.

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly X carriage and rail.png]]

Insert the assembled dual X rail as shown, with the single T-slot on the front rail at the bottom and the one on the back rail at the top (this is marginally better at supporting a heavy spindle than the opposite configuration). Adjust the X eccentric spacers until they V-wheels grip the MakerSlide firmly, but the carriage still slides smoothly. Tighten the X V-wheel screws, re-adjusting the eccentric spacers in the process. Leave the X rail in for the next step.

Insert the Z rail as shown (the orientation of the T-slot is not important). Adjust the Z eccentric spacers so that the V-wheels grip the MakerSlide firmly, but the Z rail still slides smoothly. Tighten the Z V-wheel screws, re-adjusting the eccentric spacers as necessary.

Remove the Z rail for now and set it aside.

== Go To ==

* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Gantry|Gantry]]
* Previous step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Rail|X rail]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

EShapeoko 1.6 Assembly Instructions

2021-01-20T15:28:52Z

Admin:

Please use the [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions]].

There are changes in the appearance of the motor plates and of the spindle mounts, but the same instructions apply, with the following differences:

== Prep work ==

In addition to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Prep Work]], if you have the ''deluxe'' frame, identify the two lengths of aluminium extrusion that are parallel to the Y axis. These are 80 mm shorter than the Y rail, and do not have access holes.

Tap both holes at each end of these two pieces, M5 × 0.8 mm (standard M5 thread), same as the MakerSlide.

Do not tap the remaining two profiles.

== X carriage ==

Follow the [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Carriage]] instructions, except note the following important differences in the layout of the spacers. Versions up to 1.5 used off-the-shelf spacers and a mix of washers to achieve the exact distance required between the V-wheels on the same bolt (and between the plates on the other four bolts). This version uses custom made spacers of the exact length required, so we don't need the extra washers.

* All M5 washers are the same Form A washer (nominal 1.0 mm thick, actual 0.95 mm), part number W5. There is no part W5B anymore.
* On bolts A and B, between the V-wheels, instead of two washers, one spacer, and two more washers, use just the supplied 29 mm spacer, without any washers. The spacer should contact the inner race of the bearing directly. (Note that there's still a washer between each V-wheel and the carriage plate.)
* On bolts C and D, between the carriage plates, instead of a washer, two spacers, and another washer, use just the supplied 52.9 mm spacer, without any washers. The spacer should be in direct contact with the carriage plates.

Everything else remains the same.

EShapeoko 1.6 Assembly Instructions

2021-01-20T15:28:31Z

Admin:

Please use the [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions]].

There are changes in the appearance of the motor plates and of the spindle mounts, but the same instructions apply, with the following differences:

== Prep work ==

In addition to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Prep Work]], if you have the ''deluxe'' frame, identify the two lengths of aluminium extrusion that are parallel to the Y axis. These are 80 mm shorter than the Y rail, and do not have access holes.

Tap both holes at each end of these two pieces, M5 × 0.8 mm (standard M5 thread), same as the MakerSlide.

Do not tap the remaining two profiles.

== X carriage ==

Follow the [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Carriage]] instructions, except note the following important differences in the layout of the spacers. Versions up to 1.5 used off-the-shelf spacers and a mix of washers to achieve the exact distance required between the V-wheels on the same bolt (and between the plates on the other four bolts). This version uses custom made spacers of the exact length required, so the extra washers are not needed.

* All M5 washers are the same Form A washer (nominal 1.0 mm thick, actual 0.95 mm), part number W5. There is no part W5B anymore.
* On bolts A and B, between the V-wheels, instead of two washers, one spacer, and two more washers, use just the supplied 29 mm spacer, without any washers. The spacer should contact the inner race of the bearing directly. (Note that there's still a washer between each V-wheel and the carriage plate.)
* On bolts C and D, between the carriage plates, instead of a washer, two spacers, and another washer, use just the supplied 52.9 mm spacer, without any washers. The spacer should be in direct contact with the carriage plates.

Everything else remains the same.

EShapeoko 1.6 Assembly Instructions

2021-01-20T15:27:35Z

Admin: Created page with "Please use the EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions. There are changes in the appearance of the motor plates and of the spindle mounts, but the same instructions apply, wi..."

Please use the [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions]].

There are changes in the appearance of the motor plates and of the spindle mounts, but the same instructions apply, with the following differences:

== Prep work ==

In addition to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Prep Work]], if you have the ''deluxe'' frame, identify the two lengths of aluminium extrusion that are parallel to the Y axis. These are 80 mm shorter than the Y rail, and do not have access holes.

Tap both holes at each end of these two pieces, M5 × 0.8 mm (standard M5 thread), same as the MakerSlide.

Do not tap the remaining two profiles.

== X carriage ==

Follow the [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Carriage]] instructions, except note the following important differences in the layout of the spacers. Versions up to 1.5 used off-the-shelf spacers and a mix of washers to achieve the exact distance required between the V-wheels on the same bolt (and between the plates on the other four bolts). This version uses custom made spacers, so the extra spacers aren't needed.

* All M5 washers are the same Form A washer (nominal 1.0 mm thick, actual 0.95 mm), part number W5. There is no part W5B anymore.
* On bolts A and B, between the V-wheels, instead of two washers, one spacer, and two more washers, use just the supplied 29 mm spacer, without any washers. The spacer should contact the inner race of the bearing directly. (Note that there's still a washer between each V-wheel and the carriage plate.)
* On bolts C and D, between the carriage plates, instead of a washer, two spacers, and another washer, use just the supplied 52.9 mm spacer, without any washers. The spacer should be in direct contact with the carriage plates.

Everything else remains the same.

EShapeoko 1.5 Assembly Instructions

2021-01-20T15:12:44Z

Admin: Created page with "Please use the EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions. There are changes in the appearance of the motor plates and of the spindle mounts, but the same instructions apply."

Please use the [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions]].

There are changes in the appearance of the motor plates and of the spindle mounts, but the same instructions apply.

MediaWiki:Sidebar

2021-01-20T15:09:04Z

Admin:

* navigation
** mainpage|mainpage-description
** recentchanges-url|recentchanges
* eShapeoko
** EShapeoko 1.6 Assembly Instructions|Version 1.6
** EShapeoko 1.5 Assembly Instructions|Version 1.5
** EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|Version 1.4
** EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly Instructions|Version 1.3
** EShapeoko 1.2 Assembly Instructions|Version 1.2
** EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Assembly Instructions|Version 1.0/1.1
** EShapeoko Complete Kit|Purchasing Guide
** EShapeoko FAQ|FAQ
* Other Products
** GAUPS 1.1 Instructions|GAUPS 1.1
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** V-wheel and Idler Assembly Instructions|V-wheels and Idlers
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EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Prep Work

2020-02-08T19:52:21Z

Admin: /* Tap */

== Deburr ==

Check the metal plates for burrs, droplets of metal, or spalsh marks. Scrape them off if possible, or file them off if necessary.

== Tap ==

Tap all the following holes M5 × 0.8 mm (standard M5 thread):
* Tap both holes at each end of each piece of MakerSlide, except the Z rail (a 250 mm piece), which needs only the holes at one end tapped. Brush chips away and wipe the rail clean, to prevent damage to the V-wheels. Do not tap the standard T-slot aluminium extrusion (the standard T-slot profile is symmetrical, and has six slots; MakerSlide has only five slots, and has protruding V rails on two edges).
* In the three belt tensioners in Pack 11, tap the hole that's not part of a pair. For alternate motor and belt placements, you may need to tap all three holes in each tensioner.
* Tap the two holes on either side of the central hole of the Z motor mount plate in Pack 10.

(TO DO: add images for LBT1 and LZP2/LZP3 holes.)

== Mark ==

Mark the side of each eccentric spacer that is nearest to the hole. Colour it with a permanent marker or with a tiny dab of paint. The wheel will be offset in the marked direction.

== Drill ==

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly dual X rail prep.png|frame|right|Holes for bolting the two X MakerSlide pieces together (500 mm length shown)]]

Drill the X MakerSlide for the screws that hold the two rails together.

Lay the MakerSlide flat, Vs up, and drill 3 mm (or slightly larger) holes into the bottom of the T-slot, through the core. The slot has a fine groove on the bottom to help center the drill bit. The positioning of the holes along the MakerSlide is not critical. Drill both X pieces of MakerSlide the same way.

Depending on the length of the X MakerSlide, drill as follows:
* 375 mm: drill two holes every 125 mm;
* 500 mm: drill three holes every 125 mm;
* 750 mm: drill four holes every 150 mm;
* 1000 mm: drill six holes every 143 mm.

== Go To ==
* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: V-wheels|V-wheels]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Frame

2018-11-22T14:58:14Z

Admin: /* Deluxe Frame */

The frame is the stationary part of the machine.

It consists of the Y rails,
plus all the components that support them. In the original Shapeoko,
and the first version of eShapeoko, the two Y rails were held together by
two end plates as wide as the machine -- very simple to build.
The disadvantages were less convenient access to the bed, and difficulty
in enlarging the machine in the X direction.

Many mods of the original Shapeoko,
the later versions of the eShapeoko, and the Shapeoko 2, use four narrow
vertical plates instead, joined together in twos with aluminium extrusion.
These open end plates make the machine easier to use and more versatile.
They improve access to the bed and they allow the material to
overhang the front and rear of the machine, opening the possibility of
machining stock of arbitrary length (in stages, with some form of indexing).

With larger machines, it became apparent that the Y rails needed to be
supported in the middle, not only at the ends, both against vertical sag,
and against horizontal deflection. The larger eShapeoko machines come
with mid-span supports. They need to be attached rigidly to the underlying
surface, or they are not able to prevent lateral movement of the Y rails.
This is made easier by the deluxe frame, which adds longitudinal members to
make a complete rectangle. The end plates and mid-span supports attach
to this rectangle.

== Deluxe Frame ==

You need the remaining parts in '''Pack 7''', all the parts from '''Pack 8''',
all four pieces of extrusion, all four end plates, and the two or four mid-span
supports.

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly deluxe frame base.png|thumb|none|800px|The base of the deluxe frame (500 mm × 750 mm machine shown, with one pair of mid-span Y rail supports)]]

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly deluxe frame.png|thumb|none|800px|Deluxe frame assembly (500 mm × 750 mm machine shown, with one pair of mid-span Y rail supports)]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!rowspan="3"|Item
!rowspan="3"|Part Number
!rowspan="3"|Part Description
!colspan="7"|Count
|-
!colspan="4"|X length (mm)
!colspan="3"|Y length (mm)
|-
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!750
!1000
!1500
|-
|rowspan="4"|1
|EB-435M
|435 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-560M
|560 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-810M
|810 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-1060M
|1060 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
!
!
|2
!
!
!

|-
|rowspan="3"|2
|EB-670
|670 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
|2
!
!
|-
|EB-920
|920 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
!
|2
!
|-
|EB-1420
|1420 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
!
!
|2

|-
|3
|N5TI
|M5 T-slot insertion nut
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|24
|-
|4
|S5ST
|Self-tapping screw/blind joint, M4.5
|colspan="7"|8
|-
|5
|LXP
|Open end plate
|colspan="7"|4
|-
|6
|LYS
|Mid-span Y support
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|2
|4
|-
|7
|S5-10
|M5 10 mm cap screw
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|24
|-
|8
|S5-14
|M5 14 mm cap screw
|colspan="7"|8
|-
|9
|W5
|M5 washer (form A)
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|24
|32
|}

Identify the pieces of extrusion: the transversal ones are 60 mm longer than
your X axis and have holes drilled through them. The longitudinal ones are
80 mm ''shorter'' than your Y axis, and don't have holes.

Insert the eight self-tapping blind joint screws into all holes at the ends of the
two longitudinal members of the frame. Tighten them all the way in (use a Torx
T25 bit in a drill-driver, or the supplied Torx T25 key), then back them out about
3 mm.

For each pair of mid-span Y rail supports, insert two T-slot nuts in the
longitudinal extrusion. Put them in the T-slot facing the centre of the machine.

Slide the heads of the self-tapping blind joints into the T-slots of the
transversal frame members, until they line up with the drilled holes.
Access them with the Torx T25 key through the holes, and tighten them up.
Measure the distance between the longitudinal members: it should be 13 mm
less than the length of your X axis. Resting the frame on a flat surface,
tighten the blind joints firmly.

For each pair of mid-span supports, insert two T-slot nots in the Y MakerSlide,
one in each of the two slots facing the centre of the machine.

Using the M5 × 14 mm screws (with one washer each), attach the four end plates
to the ends of the Y rail, making sure to orient them as shown (belt slots
toward the outside).

{{Note|Please examine your end plates. If they are of two different designs, place the two plates with more belt slots at the front of the machine, and the two plates with fewer slots at the rear.}}

Using two M5 × 10 mm screws each (with one washer and one T-slot nut each),
attach the bottoms of the end plates to the transversal members of the frame.
Using four M5 × 10 mm screws each (one washer each), attach the mid-span
supports to the inside of the Y MakerSlide and to the longitudinal members
of the frame.

Once the frame is assembled, make sure that the Y rails are at the same
height in each of the four corners. Tighten all the screws firmly.

== Standard Frame ==

You need the remaining parts in '''Pack 7''', all the parts in '''Pack 8''',
plus the four end plates, the two or four
mid-span supports (if your machine has them), and the two pieces of
20 mm × 40 mm extrusion. You also need the assembled gantry,
with the Y rails inserted in the Y carriages.

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly standard frame.png|frame|none|Standard frame assembly (500 mm × 500 mm machine shown)]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!rowspan="3"|Item
!rowspan="3"|Part Number
!rowspan="3"|Part Description
!colspan="9"|Count
|-
!colspan="4"|X length (mm)
!colspan="5"|Y length (mm)
|-
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!1500
|-
|1
|LXP
|Open end plate
|colspan="9"|4
|-
|2
|S5-10
|M5 10 mm cap screw
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|8
|colspan="2"|12
|16
|-
|3
|W5
|M5 washer (form A)
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|colspan="2"|20
|24
|-
|4
|S5-14
|M5 14 mm cap screw
|colspan="9"|8
|-
|5
|N5TI
|M5 T-slot insertion nut
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|8
|colspan="2"|12
|16
|-
|rowspan="4"|6
|EB-435
|435 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-560
|560 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-810
|810 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-1060
|1060 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|n/a
|LYS
|Mid-span Y support
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|0
|colspan="2"|2
|4
|}

The standard frame has only transversal extrusion pieces, 60 mm longer
than your X axis. They connect the end plates in the same way as they do
for the deluxe frame.

Before you bolt the Y MakerSlide to the end plates, do not forget to put in two
insertion nuts for each mid-span support, if applicable (shorter machines do
not have mid-span supports): for each support, one nut in the upper slot and
one in the lower one. Please see the diagram for the deluxe frame above,
but note that no hardware is supplied for the bottom of the mid-span
supports. Ideally, the mid-span supports will be bolted securely to the
table (using a stiff bracket or a solid block).

{{Note|Please examine your end plates. If they are of two different designs, place the two plates with more belt slots at the front of the machine, and the two plates with fewer slots at the rear.}}

Once the frame is assembled, make sure that the Y rails are at the same
height in each of the four corners. Tighten the screws firmly.

== Go To ==

* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Z Leadscrew|Z leadscrew]]
* Previous step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Gantry|Gantry]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Frame

2018-11-22T14:57:50Z

Admin: /* Standard Frame */

The frame is the stationary part of the machine.

It consists of the Y rails,
plus all the components that support them. In the original Shapeoko,
and the first version of eShapeoko, the two Y rails were held together by
two end plates as wide as the machine -- very simple to build.
The disadvantages were less convenient access to the bed, and difficulty
in enlarging the machine in the X direction.

Many mods of the original Shapeoko,
the later versions of the eShapeoko, and the Shapeoko 2, use four narrow
vertical plates instead, joined together in twos with aluminium extrusion.
These open end plates make the machine easier to use and more versatile.
They improve access to the bed and they allow the material to
overhang the front and rear of the machine, opening the possibility of
machining stock of arbitrary length (in stages, with some form of indexing).

With larger machines, it became apparent that the Y rails needed to be
supported in the middle, not only at the ends, both against vertical sag,
and against horizontal deflection. The larger eShapeoko machines come
with mid-span supports. They need to be attached rigidly to the underlying
surface, or they are not able to prevent lateral movement of the Y rails.
This is made easier by the deluxe frame, which adds longitudinal members to
make a complete rectangle. The end plates and mid-span supports attach
to this rectangle.

== Deluxe Frame ==

You need the remaining parts in '''Pack 7''', all the parts from '''Pack 8''',
all four pieces of extrusion, all four end plates, and the two or four mid-span
supports.

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly deluxe frame base.png|thumb|none|800px|The base of the deluxe frame (500 mm × 750 mm machine shown, with one pair of mid-span Y rail supports)]]

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly deluxe frame.png|thumb|none|800px|Deluxe frame assembly (500 mm × 750 mm machine shown, with one pair of mid-span Y rail supports)]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!rowspan="3"|Item
!rowspan="3"|Part Number
!rowspan="3"|Part Description
!colspan="7"|Count
|-
!colspan="4"|X length (mm)
!colspan="3"|Y length (mm)
|-
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!750
!1000
!1500
|-
|rowspan="4"|1
|EB-435M
|435 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-560M
|560 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-810M
|810 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-1060M
|1060 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
!
!
|2
!
!
!

|-
|rowspan="3"|2
|EB-670
|670 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
|2
!
!
|-
|EB-920
|920 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
!
|2
!
|-
|EB-1420
|1420 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
!
!
|2

|-
|3
|N5TI
|M5 T-slot insertion nut
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|24
|-
|4
|S5ST
|Self-tapping screw/blind joint, M4.5
|colspan="7"|8
|-
|5
|LXP
|Open end plate
|colspan="7"|4
|-
|6
|LYS
|Mid-span Y support
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|2
|4
|-
|7
|S5-10
|M5 10 mm cap screw
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|24
|-
|8
|S5-14
|M5 14 mm cap screw
|colspan="7"|8
|-
|9
|W5
|M5 washer (form A)
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|24
|32
|}

Identify the pieces of extrusion: the transversal ones are 60 mm longer than
your X axis and have holes drilled through them. The longitudinal ones are
80 mm ''shorter'' than your Y axis, and don't have holes.

Insert the eight self-tapping blind joint screws into all holes at the ends of the
two longitudinal members of the frame. Tighten them all the way in (use a Torx
T25 bit in a drill-driver, or the supplied Torx T25 key), then back them out about
3 mm.

For each pair of mid-span Y rail supports, insert two T-slot nuts in the
longitudinal extrusion. Put them in the T-slot facing the centre of the machine.

Slide the heads of the self-tapping blind joints into the T-slots of the
transversal frame members, until they line up with the drilled holes.
Access them with the Torx T25 key through the holes, and tighten them up.
Measure the distance between the longitudinal members: it should be 13 mm
less than the length of your X axis. Resting the frame on a flat surface,
tighten the blind joints firmly.

For each pair of mid-span supports, insert two T-slot nots in the Y MakerSlide,
one in each of the two slots facing the centre of the machine.

Using the M5 × 14 mm screws (with one washer each), attach the four end plates
to the ends of the Y rail, making sure to orient them as shown (belt slots
toward the outside).

{{Note|Please examine your end plates. If they are of two different designs, place the two plates with more belt slots each at the front of the machine, and the two plates with fewer slots at the rear.}}

Using two M5 × 10 mm screws each (with one washer and one T-slot nut each),
attach the bottoms of the end plates to the transversal members of the frame.
Using four M5 × 10 mm screws each (one washer each), attach the mid-span
supports to the inside of the Y MakerSlide and to the longitudinal members
of the frame.

Once the frame is assembled, make sure that the Y rails are at the same
height in each of the four corners. Tighten all the screws firmly.

== Standard Frame ==

You need the remaining parts in '''Pack 7''', all the parts in '''Pack 8''',
plus the four end plates, the two or four
mid-span supports (if your machine has them), and the two pieces of
20 mm × 40 mm extrusion. You also need the assembled gantry,
with the Y rails inserted in the Y carriages.

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly standard frame.png|frame|none|Standard frame assembly (500 mm × 500 mm machine shown)]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!rowspan="3"|Item
!rowspan="3"|Part Number
!rowspan="3"|Part Description
!colspan="9"|Count
|-
!colspan="4"|X length (mm)
!colspan="5"|Y length (mm)
|-
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!1500
|-
|1
|LXP
|Open end plate
|colspan="9"|4
|-
|2
|S5-10
|M5 10 mm cap screw
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|8
|colspan="2"|12
|16
|-
|3
|W5
|M5 washer (form A)
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|colspan="2"|20
|24
|-
|4
|S5-14
|M5 14 mm cap screw
|colspan="9"|8
|-
|5
|N5TI
|M5 T-slot insertion nut
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|8
|colspan="2"|12
|16
|-
|rowspan="4"|6
|EB-435
|435 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-560
|560 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-810
|810 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-1060
|1060 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|n/a
|LYS
|Mid-span Y support
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|0
|colspan="2"|2
|4
|}

The standard frame has only transversal extrusion pieces, 60 mm longer
than your X axis. They connect the end plates in the same way as they do
for the deluxe frame.

Before you bolt the Y MakerSlide to the end plates, do not forget to put in two
insertion nuts for each mid-span support, if applicable (shorter machines do
not have mid-span supports): for each support, one nut in the upper slot and
one in the lower one. Please see the diagram for the deluxe frame above,
but note that no hardware is supplied for the bottom of the mid-span
supports. Ideally, the mid-span supports will be bolted securely to the
table (using a stiff bracket or a solid block).

{{Note|Please examine your end plates. If they are of two different designs, place the two plates with more belt slots at the front of the machine, and the two plates with fewer slots at the rear.}}

Once the frame is assembled, make sure that the Y rails are at the same
height in each of the four corners. Tighten the screws firmly.

== Go To ==

* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Z Leadscrew|Z leadscrew]]
* Previous step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Gantry|Gantry]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Frame

2018-11-22T14:57:28Z

Admin: /* Standard Frame */

The frame is the stationary part of the machine.

It consists of the Y rails,
plus all the components that support them. In the original Shapeoko,
and the first version of eShapeoko, the two Y rails were held together by
two end plates as wide as the machine -- very simple to build.
The disadvantages were less convenient access to the bed, and difficulty
in enlarging the machine in the X direction.

Many mods of the original Shapeoko,
the later versions of the eShapeoko, and the Shapeoko 2, use four narrow
vertical plates instead, joined together in twos with aluminium extrusion.
These open end plates make the machine easier to use and more versatile.
They improve access to the bed and they allow the material to
overhang the front and rear of the machine, opening the possibility of
machining stock of arbitrary length (in stages, with some form of indexing).

With larger machines, it became apparent that the Y rails needed to be
supported in the middle, not only at the ends, both against vertical sag,
and against horizontal deflection. The larger eShapeoko machines come
with mid-span supports. They need to be attached rigidly to the underlying
surface, or they are not able to prevent lateral movement of the Y rails.
This is made easier by the deluxe frame, which adds longitudinal members to
make a complete rectangle. The end plates and mid-span supports attach
to this rectangle.

== Deluxe Frame ==

You need the remaining parts in '''Pack 7''', all the parts from '''Pack 8''',
all four pieces of extrusion, all four end plates, and the two or four mid-span
supports.

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly deluxe frame base.png|thumb|none|800px|The base of the deluxe frame (500 mm × 750 mm machine shown, with one pair of mid-span Y rail supports)]]

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly deluxe frame.png|thumb|none|800px|Deluxe frame assembly (500 mm × 750 mm machine shown, with one pair of mid-span Y rail supports)]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!rowspan="3"|Item
!rowspan="3"|Part Number
!rowspan="3"|Part Description
!colspan="7"|Count
|-
!colspan="4"|X length (mm)
!colspan="3"|Y length (mm)
|-
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!750
!1000
!1500
|-
|rowspan="4"|1
|EB-435M
|435 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-560M
|560 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-810M
|810 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-1060M
|1060 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
!
!
|2
!
!
!

|-
|rowspan="3"|2
|EB-670
|670 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
|2
!
!
|-
|EB-920
|920 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
!
|2
!
|-
|EB-1420
|1420 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
!
!
|2

|-
|3
|N5TI
|M5 T-slot insertion nut
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|24
|-
|4
|S5ST
|Self-tapping screw/blind joint, M4.5
|colspan="7"|8
|-
|5
|LXP
|Open end plate
|colspan="7"|4
|-
|6
|LYS
|Mid-span Y support
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|2
|4
|-
|7
|S5-10
|M5 10 mm cap screw
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|24
|-
|8
|S5-14
|M5 14 mm cap screw
|colspan="7"|8
|-
|9
|W5
|M5 washer (form A)
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|24
|32
|}

Identify the pieces of extrusion: the transversal ones are 60 mm longer than
your X axis and have holes drilled through them. The longitudinal ones are
80 mm ''shorter'' than your Y axis, and don't have holes.

Insert the eight self-tapping blind joint screws into all holes at the ends of the
two longitudinal members of the frame. Tighten them all the way in (use a Torx
T25 bit in a drill-driver, or the supplied Torx T25 key), then back them out about
3 mm.

For each pair of mid-span Y rail supports, insert two T-slot nuts in the
longitudinal extrusion. Put them in the T-slot facing the centre of the machine.

Slide the heads of the self-tapping blind joints into the T-slots of the
transversal frame members, until they line up with the drilled holes.
Access them with the Torx T25 key through the holes, and tighten them up.
Measure the distance between the longitudinal members: it should be 13 mm
less than the length of your X axis. Resting the frame on a flat surface,
tighten the blind joints firmly.

For each pair of mid-span supports, insert two T-slot nots in the Y MakerSlide,
one in each of the two slots facing the centre of the machine.

Using the M5 × 14 mm screws (with one washer each), attach the four end plates
to the ends of the Y rail, making sure to orient them as shown (belt slots
toward the outside).

{{Note|Please examine your end plates. If they are of two different designs, place the two plates with more belt slots each at the front of the machine, and the two plates with fewer slots at the rear.}}

Using two M5 × 10 mm screws each (with one washer and one T-slot nut each),
attach the bottoms of the end plates to the transversal members of the frame.
Using four M5 × 10 mm screws each (one washer each), attach the mid-span
supports to the inside of the Y MakerSlide and to the longitudinal members
of the frame.

Once the frame is assembled, make sure that the Y rails are at the same
height in each of the four corners. Tighten all the screws firmly.

== Standard Frame ==

You need the remaining parts in '''Pack 7''', all the parts in '''Pack 8''',
plus the four end plates, the two or four
mid-span supports (if your machine has them), and the two pieces of
20 mm × 40 mm extrusion. You also need the assembled gantry,
with the Y rails inserted in the Y carriages.

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly standard frame.png|frame|none|Standard frame assembly (500 mm × 500 mm machine shown)]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!rowspan="3"|Item
!rowspan="3"|Part Number
!rowspan="3"|Part Description
!colspan="9"|Count
|-
!colspan="4"|X length (mm)
!colspan="5"|Y length (mm)
|-
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!1500
|-
|1
|LXP
|Open end plate
|colspan="9"|4
|-
|2
|S5-10
|M5 10 mm cap screw
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|8
|colspan="2"|12
|16
|-
|3
|W5
|M5 washer (form A)
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|colspan="2"|20
|24
|-
|4
|S5-14
|M5 14 mm cap screw
|colspan="9"|8
|-
|5
|N5TI
|M5 T-slot insertion nut
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|8
|colspan="2"|12
|16
|-
|rowspan="4"|6
|EB-435
|435 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-560
|560 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-810
|810 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-1060
|1060 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|n/a
|LYS
|Mid-span Y support
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|0
|colspan="2"|2
|4
|}

The standard frame has only transversal extrusion pieces, 60 mm longer
than your X axis. They connect the end plates in the same way as they do
for the deluxe frame.

Before you bolt the Y MakerSlide to the end plates, do not forget to put in two
insertion nuts for each mid-span support, if applicable (shorter machines do
not have mid-span supports): for each support, one nut in the upper slot and
one in the lower one. Please see the diagram for the deluxe frame above,
but note that no hardware is supplied for the bottom of the mid-span
supports. Ideally, the mid-span supports will be bolted securely to the
table (using a stiff bracket or a solid block).

{{Note|Please examine your end plates. If they are of two different designs, place the two plates with more belt slots each at the front of the machine, and the two plates with fewer slots at the rear.}}

Once the frame is assembled, make sure that the Y rails are at the same
height in each of the four corners. Tighten the screws firmly.

== Go To ==

* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Z Leadscrew|Z leadscrew]]
* Previous step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Gantry|Gantry]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Frame

2018-11-22T14:56:40Z

Admin: /* Deluxe Frame */

The frame is the stationary part of the machine.

It consists of the Y rails,
plus all the components that support them. In the original Shapeoko,
and the first version of eShapeoko, the two Y rails were held together by
two end plates as wide as the machine -- very simple to build.
The disadvantages were less convenient access to the bed, and difficulty
in enlarging the machine in the X direction.

Many mods of the original Shapeoko,
the later versions of the eShapeoko, and the Shapeoko 2, use four narrow
vertical plates instead, joined together in twos with aluminium extrusion.
These open end plates make the machine easier to use and more versatile.
They improve access to the bed and they allow the material to
overhang the front and rear of the machine, opening the possibility of
machining stock of arbitrary length (in stages, with some form of indexing).

With larger machines, it became apparent that the Y rails needed to be
supported in the middle, not only at the ends, both against vertical sag,
and against horizontal deflection. The larger eShapeoko machines come
with mid-span supports. They need to be attached rigidly to the underlying
surface, or they are not able to prevent lateral movement of the Y rails.
This is made easier by the deluxe frame, which adds longitudinal members to
make a complete rectangle. The end plates and mid-span supports attach
to this rectangle.

== Deluxe Frame ==

You need the remaining parts in '''Pack 7''', all the parts from '''Pack 8''',
all four pieces of extrusion, all four end plates, and the two or four mid-span
supports.

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly deluxe frame base.png|thumb|none|800px|The base of the deluxe frame (500 mm × 750 mm machine shown, with one pair of mid-span Y rail supports)]]

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly deluxe frame.png|thumb|none|800px|Deluxe frame assembly (500 mm × 750 mm machine shown, with one pair of mid-span Y rail supports)]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!rowspan="3"|Item
!rowspan="3"|Part Number
!rowspan="3"|Part Description
!colspan="7"|Count
|-
!colspan="4"|X length (mm)
!colspan="3"|Y length (mm)
|-
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!750
!1000
!1500
|-
|rowspan="4"|1
|EB-435M
|435 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-560M
|560 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-810M
|810 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-1060M
|1060 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion (with holes)
!
!
!
|2
!
!
!

|-
|rowspan="3"|2
|EB-670
|670 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
|2
!
!
|-
|EB-920
|920 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
!
|2
!
|-
|EB-1420
|1420 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
!
!
!
|2

|-
|3
|N5TI
|M5 T-slot insertion nut
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|24
|-
|4
|S5ST
|Self-tapping screw/blind joint, M4.5
|colspan="7"|8
|-
|5
|LXP
|Open end plate
|colspan="7"|4
|-
|6
|LYS
|Mid-span Y support
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|2
|4
|-
|7
|S5-10
|M5 10 mm cap screw
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|24
|-
|8
|S5-14
|M5 14 mm cap screw
|colspan="7"|8
|-
|9
|W5
|M5 washer (form A)
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|24
|32
|}

Identify the pieces of extrusion: the transversal ones are 60 mm longer than
your X axis and have holes drilled through them. The longitudinal ones are
80 mm ''shorter'' than your Y axis, and don't have holes.

Insert the eight self-tapping blind joint screws into all holes at the ends of the
two longitudinal members of the frame. Tighten them all the way in (use a Torx
T25 bit in a drill-driver, or the supplied Torx T25 key), then back them out about
3 mm.

For each pair of mid-span Y rail supports, insert two T-slot nuts in the
longitudinal extrusion. Put them in the T-slot facing the centre of the machine.

Slide the heads of the self-tapping blind joints into the T-slots of the
transversal frame members, until they line up with the drilled holes.
Access them with the Torx T25 key through the holes, and tighten them up.
Measure the distance between the longitudinal members: it should be 13 mm
less than the length of your X axis. Resting the frame on a flat surface,
tighten the blind joints firmly.

For each pair of mid-span supports, insert two T-slot nots in the Y MakerSlide,
one in each of the two slots facing the centre of the machine.

Using the M5 × 14 mm screws (with one washer each), attach the four end plates
to the ends of the Y rail, making sure to orient them as shown (belt slots
toward the outside).

{{Note|Please examine your end plates. If they are of two different designs, place the two plates with more belt slots each at the front of the machine, and the two plates with fewer slots at the rear.}}

Using two M5 × 10 mm screws each (with one washer and one T-slot nut each),
attach the bottoms of the end plates to the transversal members of the frame.
Using four M5 × 10 mm screws each (one washer each), attach the mid-span
supports to the inside of the Y MakerSlide and to the longitudinal members
of the frame.

Once the frame is assembled, make sure that the Y rails are at the same
height in each of the four corners. Tighten all the screws firmly.

== Standard Frame ==

You need the remaining parts in '''Pack 7''', all the parts in '''Pack 8''',
plus the four end plates, the two or four
mid-span supports (if your machine has them), and the two pieces of
20 mm × 40 mm extrusion. You also need the assembled gantry,
with the Y rails inserted in the Y carriages.

[[File:EShapeoko 1.2 assembly standard frame.png|frame|none|Standard frame assembly (500 mm × 500 mm machine shown)]]

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!rowspan="3"|Item
!rowspan="3"|Part Number
!rowspan="3"|Part Description
!colspan="9"|Count
|-
!colspan="4"|X length (mm)
!colspan="5"|Y length (mm)
|-
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!375
!500
!750
!1000
!1500
|-
|1
|LXP
|Open end plate
|colspan="9"|4
|-
|2
|S5-10
|M5 10 mm cap screw
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|8
|colspan="2"|12
|16
|-
|3
|W5
|M5 washer (form A)
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|16
|colspan="2"|20
|24
|-
|4
|S5-14
|M5 14 mm cap screw
|colspan="9"|8
|-
|5
|N5TI
|M5 T-slot insertion nut
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|8
|colspan="2"|12
|16
|-
|rowspan="4"|6
|EB-435
|435 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-560
|560 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-810
|810 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|EB-1060
|1060 mm 20×40 T-slot extrusion
!
!
!
|2
!
!
!
!
!
|-
|n/a
|LYS
|Mid-span Y support
!
!
!
!
|colspan="2"|0
|colspan="2"|2
|4
|}

The standard frame has only transversal extrusion pieces, 60 mm longer
than your X axis. They connect the end plates in the same way as they do
for the deluxe frame.

Before you bolt the Y MakerSlide to the end plates, do not forget to put in two
insertion nuts for each mid-span support, if applicable (shorter machines do
not have mid-span supports): for each support, one nut in the upper slot and
one in the lower one. Please see the diagram for the deluxe frame above,
but note that no hardware is supplied for the bottom of the mid-span
supports. Ideally, the mid-span supports will be bolted securely to the
table (using a stiff bracket or a solid block).

Once the frame is assembled, make sure that the Y rails are at the same
height in each of the four corners. Tighten the screws firmly.

== Go To ==

* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Z Leadscrew|Z leadscrew]]
* Previous step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Gantry|Gantry]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

Main Page

2018-02-01T00:00:34Z

Admin:

== eShapeoko ==

The eShapeoko is an affordable three-axis desktop CNC milling machine. It is a clone of Edward Ford's tremendously successful Shapeoko 1 and 2, with some changes. Much of the low-cost aspect we owe to Bart Dring, who invented MakerSlide, a simple and inexpensive linear bearing system that doubles as structural support.

eShapeoko is sold in kit form. For now, only a [http://store.amberspyglass.co.uk/eshapeoko-mechanical-kit.html Mechanical Kit] is available. In addition to that, you need four stepper motors, a power supply, and the electronics to drive the motors: please read [[EShapeoko Complete Kit|this guide]].

== Resources ==

[[V-wheel and Idler Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko FAQ]]

EShapeoko 1.5 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.5.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.5.0]
[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.5.1%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.5.1]

[[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.4.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.4.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.3 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.3.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.3.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.2 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.2 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.1%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.1], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.3%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.3], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.4%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.4]

[[EShapeoko Complete Kit]]

[[Camera Slider Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

[[Camera Slider Assembly Instructions]]

[[Motor Drivers]] (inlcuding GAUPS)

[https://github.com/amberspyglass/parts Part Drawings] (including eShapeoko 1.x and the camera slider)

Some information about [[Stepper Motors]]

=== Older Kits ===

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Dual-X Assembly Notes]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 NEMA23 upgrades]]

[http://blog.amberspyglass.co.uk/2013/12/20/eshapeoko-packing-list/eshapeoko-v1-1-packing-list/ EShapeoko 1.1 Packing List]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

We are adding more information here every now and then. In the meantime, a wealth of information and generous help await at the [http://shapeoko.com/forum/ Shapeoko forum].

The eShapeoko is based on the [http://shapeoko.com Shapeoko] by Edward Ford, and open-source project. The eShapeoko is designed by Cătălin Voinescu. It is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license.

Main Page

2018-01-31T23:58:17Z

Admin:

== eShapeoko ==

The eShapeoko is an affordable three-axis desktop CNC milling machine. It is a clone of Edward Ford's tremendously successful Shapeoko 1 and 2, with some changes. Much of the low-cost aspect we owe to Bart Dring, who invented MakerSlide, a simple and inexpensive linear bearing system that doubles as structural support.

eShapeoko is sold in kit form. For now, only a [http://store.amberspyglass.co.uk/eshapeoko-mechanical-kit.html Mechanical Kit] is available. In addition to that, you need four stepper motors, a power supply, and the electronics to drive the motors: please read [[EShapeoko Complete Kit|this guide]].

== Resources ==

[[V-wheel and Idler Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko FAQ]]

EShapeoko 1.5 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.4.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.5.0]
[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.5.1%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.5.1]

[[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.4.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.4.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.3 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.3.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.3.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.2 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.2 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.1%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.1], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.3%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.3], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.4%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.4]

[[EShapeoko Complete Kit]]

[[Camera Slider Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

[[Camera Slider Assembly Instructions]]

[[Motor Drivers]] (inlcuding GAUPS)

[https://github.com/amberspyglass/parts Part Drawings] (including eShapeoko 1.x and the camera slider)

Some information about [[Stepper Motors]]

=== Older Kits ===

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Dual-X Assembly Notes]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 NEMA23 upgrades]]

[http://blog.amberspyglass.co.uk/2013/12/20/eshapeoko-packing-list/eshapeoko-v1-1-packing-list/ EShapeoko 1.1 Packing List]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

We are adding more information here every now and then. In the meantime, a wealth of information and generous help await at the [http://shapeoko.com/forum/ Shapeoko forum].

The eShapeoko is based on the [http://shapeoko.com Shapeoko] by Edward Ford, and open-source project. The eShapeoko is designed by Cătălin Voinescu. It is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license.

EShapeoko Complete Kit

2017-04-20T22:09:28Z

Admin: Updated store links following hosting move

<onlyinclude>The mechanical kit includes everything you need to build the machine,
except the motors and electronics. The kit includes belts, belt pulleys,
and all hardware to attach the motors.

To build a complete, working machine, you will need
stepper motors,
a controller,
stepper motor drivers (may be built into the controller),
a power supply,
cables,
a spindle,
tools,
a waste board.
Optionally, you could add:
a fan (for the motor drivers),
an emergency stop button,
an enclosure for the electronics (with connectors and buttons),
homing and limit switches.
</onlyinclude>
This article makes a modest start in exploring the variety of electronics
that can work with the eShapeoko. It can be a little overwhelming for a
beginner, so we've arranged it so that it can be read in three ways:
* Read it in its entirety;
* Skip over the ''More Choices'' sections, and [[EShapeoko Complete Kit (Example Only)|focus on our example configuration]];
* Click all the way through to [[#Summary|the summary]] and read only that.

[[File:GAUPS_1.1_stepper_shield_complete_system.jpg|center|800px|thumb|Nearly complete eShapeoko electronics with GAUPS 1.1 and Arduino Uno, shown here with four NEMA 17 motors]]

== Example Machine ==
There are many options at each stage, and this page will try to guide you
through the choices. As an introduction to the sometimes bewildering array
of choices, we will illustrate with an example: a single, complete configuration
using our preferred choices. They are highlighted in green in all the tables.

<onlyinclude>Our example is a machine with a 750 mm X axis and 500 mm Y axis,
with NEMA 23 motors on X and Y, and a NEMA 17 motor on the Z axis.
This machine will have just over 585 mm of X travel, 335 mm of Y travel,
and 100 mm of Z travel.

We chose the X axis longer than the Y axis
because a "wide" machine open at the front and rear gives better access
to the work area. This is at a slight expense in rigidity: the
500 mm × 750 mm machine, which most people prefer, would have had
a shorter (thus more rigid) X axis, and mid-span supports for the Y rails.

We intend to use this machine with a trim router, milling plywood at an
aggressive feed rate with a 6.35 mm (1/4") endmill, as well as more
delicate applications (PCBs), using small endmills with 3.175 mm (1/8")
shanks.

== Stepper Motors ==
[[File:NEMA23a.jpg|thumb|right|200px|NEMA 23 motor (51 mm long)]]
</onlyinclude>
[[File:NEMA17-48mm-stepper-motor.jpg|thumb|right|160px|NEMA 17 motor (48 mm long)]]
=== Our Example ===
<onlyinclude>
We chose three 0.9° per step (400 step per revolution)
NEMA 23 motors with a current rating of 1.7 A. There's one motor on the X axis,
and two of them on the Y axis. These motors are 51 mm long (excluding the
shaft) and weigh about 560 g each. Like most NEMA 23 motors, they have a 6.35 mm
(1/4 inch) shaft. They have a holding torque of 9000 gf·cm.

To get an idea of what a holding torque of 9000 gf·cm means,
[[Stepper Motors#Holding Torque|read here]].

For the Z axis, we chose a 1.8° per step (200 step per revolution)
NEMA 17 motor, also with a current rating of 1.7 A. The motor is 48 mm long,
weighs about 340 g, and has a holding torque of 5200 gf·cm. It's very
powerful for a NEMA 17 motor, and enough for the Z axis in most cases.
</onlyinclude>
=== More Choices ===

==== Motor Size: NEMA 17 or NEMA 23 ====
NEMA 17 motors are 42 mm wide, with M3 threaded holes and (typically)
5 mm diameter shafts about 22 mm long. The motor length can vary,
but 48 mm is the largest usual size, which weighs about a third of
a kilogram. Longer ones exist, but they are
rare and fairly expensive.

NEMA 23 motors are 57 mm wide, with 5 mm diameter unthreaded holes
and (typically) 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) shafts about 20 mm long. The
motor length varies. The smallest usual NEMA 23 motor is 50 or 51 mm
long, and weighs just over half a kilogram.
Much longer ones are made, and they
are commonly used in larger CNC milling machines. However, we do
not recommend NEMA 23 motors longer than 51 mm for the eShapeoko:
they are too heavy, and the extra torque is not useful.

The choice is between 51 mm NEMA 23 motors and 48 mm NEMA 17 motors.
Roughly speaking, the NEMA 23 motor has more than double the torque
of the NEMA 17 motor, and weighs almost twice as much. NEMA 23 motors
are a good choice for the X and Y axes if you plan to use a heavy
spindle, or if you have a long X axis. For a small machine, NEMA 17
motors are usually enough.

On the Z axis, a NEMA 23 motor is rarely needed. Because of the
mechanical advantage of the screw drive, a NEMA 17 motor can cope
with a large spindle, especially when used with the trapezoidal
leadscrew, which has much lower friction than ordinary M8 threaded
rod.

In case you were wondering where the 17 and 23 came from, they are
the motor width in units of 0.1 inch.

==== Step Size: 0.9° or 1.8° ====
A 1.8° motor is faster and more powerful than a 0.9° motor
of the same size and current rating. A 0.9° motor is more accurate,
in a way that can not be made up by increasing microstepping.
For instance, a 1.8° motor with 16× microstepping has
almost twice the positioning error of a 0.9° motor with 8×
microstepping under the same load, despite both having the same
microsteps size (0.1125°, or 3200 microsteps per revolution).

The X and Y axes travel 36.576 mm per motor revolution with 18-tooth
MXL pulleys, or 40.0 mm with 20-tooth GT2 pulleys. If you do precision
work (milling PCBs, or delicate engraving), it is a good idea to use
0.9° per step motors, giving you a full step size of 0.1 mm with
GT2 pulleys (6.25 micron per microstep at 16× microstepping).
The Z axis travels only 1.25 mm per revolution with M8 threaded rod, or
2.0 mm with the trapezoidal leadscrew. There's less to gain
in using a 0.9° motor for the Z axis: a full step is only 0.01 mm
with a 1.8° motor and the trapezoidal leadscrew.

==== Current Rating ====
For the small motor drivers commonly used with this type of machine,
the ideal current rating of the motor is about 1.7 A. This also happens
to be the sweet spot for 48 mm NEMA 17 motors: of a range of motors
of this size, the ones rated between 1.5 A and 2 A have the highest
torque. If you have
a larger driver, such as a Toshiba TB6560-based unit, then you may
prefer a motor with a higher current rating (2 A and up), because
it would have slightly better performance at high speed.

=== Our Products ===
The motors suggested for our example machine are highlighted in green.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Option
!Form factor
!Length
!Step size
!Steps per rev
!Rated current
!Holding torque
!Motor weight
!Store link
!Comments
|- style="background:#CED;"
!1
|NEMA 23||51 mm||0.9°||400||1.7 A||9000 gf·cm||560 g
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/51mm-nema23-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html visit]
|Good all-round motor for X and Y, precise and plenty powerful
|-
!–
|NEMA 23||51 mm||1.8°||200
|colspan="5" align="center"|''not available (see below)''
|-
!2
|NEMA 17||48 mm||0.9°||400||1.7 A||4200 gf·cm||340 g
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html visit]
|Good for precision work on all axes. Average torque
|- style="background:#CED;"
!3
|NEMA 17||48 mm||1.8°||200||1.7 A||5300 gf·cm||340 g
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-1-7a-stepper-motor-200step-per-rev.html visit]
|Fast and powerful, yet economical. Good for all axes
|-
!4
|NEMA 17||48 mm||1.8°||200||2.5 A||4800 gf·cm||340 g
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-stepper-motor-200step-per-rev.html visit]
|Good match for bigger drivers (TB6560 etc)
|-
!5
|NEMA 17||40 mm||1.8°||200||1.7 A||4000 gf·cm||240 g
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/40mm-nema17-stepper-motor-200step-per-rev.html visit]
|Lighter weight. Not ideal for eShapeoko: use Option 3 instead
|}

Our 0.9° NEMA 23 motor has plenty of torque and is able to move
the machine quickly, so we do not offer a 1.8° NEMA 23 motor
of the same size (which would have been even more powerful,
but less accurate).

These are some of the combinations of motors that make sense:
{| class="wikitable"
|-
!X and Y axes
!Z axis
!Comments
|- style="background:#CED;"
|3 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/51mm-nema23-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 23 0.9°]
|1 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-1-7a-stepper-motor-200step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 1.8°]
|Very strong motors with precise positioning
|-
|3 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/51mm-nema23-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 23 0.9°]
|1 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 0.9°]
|As above, with extra precision in Z positioning
|-
|colspan="2" align="center"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/51mm-nema23-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 23 0.9°]
|More torque than necessary for the Z axis
|-
|colspan="2" align="center"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-1-7a-stepper-motor-200step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 1.8°]
|Strong, fast motors
|-
|3 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 0.9°]
|1 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-1-7a-stepper-motor-200step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 1.8°]
|Precise positioning, Z axis faster
|-
|colspan="2" align="center"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 0.9°]
|Precise positioning, Z axis extra-precise
|}
<onlyinclude>
== Controller ==
</onlyinclude>
[[File:Arduino-uno-box-2.jpg|thumb|right|x200px|Arduino Uno (in box)]]
=== Our Example ===
<onlyinclude>
We chose the most popular controller for the Shapeoko and eShapeoko:
an [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno Arduino Uno],
running the [https://github.com/grbl/grbl GRBL software]. GRBL is a G-code interpreter:
it receives [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code G-code] and emits step and direction signals
for the motor drivers.
GRBL can control three axes. Our machine has four motors, but the two Y motors
always move together, so they share one set of control signals and count as
only one axis.
</onlyinclude>
=== More Choices ===
==== GRBL ====
[https://github.com/grbl/grbl GRBL] is the G-code interpreter used by the vast majority of Shapeoko
and eShapeoko owners. It runs on the [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno Arduino Uno] and requires a shield with drivers.
There are also several boards based on the same microcontroller (CPU) as the
Arduino Uno, the [http://www.atmel.com/devices/atmega328p.aspx Atmel Atmega328P], some of which also include motor drivers.
The [http://www.panucatt.com/product_p/mcnc-3az-328p.htm Azteeg G1] from Panucatt comes to mind, as well as [http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/XStepper XStepper], a board designed by
fellow Shapeoko forum member xpix.

GRBL-based controllers are easy to work with,
and there are lots of helpful people with experience with them on the [http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/ Shapeoko forum].

GRBL's implementation of G-code is intentionally limited and does not include
features frequently used by humans when they write G-code, such as flow control
and variables. Most CAM packages can generate G-code that works with GRBL,
though, because they don't need those features.

==== 3D Printer Electronics ====
Most 3D printer electronics and firmware will also run CNC milling machines.
One example is the [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega2560 Arduino Mega2560] with [https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Marlin], using a [http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS RAMPS board]. There are
quite a few designs that integrate the [http://www.atmel.com/devices/atmega2560.aspx Atmega2560 processor] and the drivers into
a single-board solution, too, including several products from [http://www.panucatt.com/ Panucatt], and the
[http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA RUMBA board].

3D printer boards are ubiquitous, but the firmware isn't designed for CNC milling,
like GRBL is, so they may not be ideal. GRBL now officially supports the
AtMega2560 + RAMPS, so it can be used too.

==== TinyG ====
The [http://www.synthetos.com/project/tinyg/ TinyG] controller and firmware are designed for CNC machines. TinyG integrates
the processor (a much more powerful Atmel chip than the Arduino Uno and Mega)
and the stepper motor drivers. The TinyG firmware has third-order motion profiles,
as opposed to second-order in GRBL, Marlin etc. In other words, while GRBL limits
acceleration to a constant maximum value, TinyG limits the rate of ''change'' of
acceleration (the ''jerk''). This results in much more fluid motion that shakes
the machine less and excites fewer resonances, possibly allowing the motors to
move faster.

In a relatively new development, the [https://github.com/synthetos/g2 TinyG firmware] (renamed G2) can run on ARM
chips, including the [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardDue Arduino Due]. On the Due, it can be configured to drive
either an Arduino Uno-compatible shield ([http://www.synthetos.com/project/grblshield/ gShield], [[GAUPS 1.0 Instructions|GAUPS]])
or an Arduino Mega-compatible shield ([http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS RAMPS]).

==== SmoothieBoard ====
Like TinyG, the SmoothieBoard integrates the processor and drivers. It has an
even more powerful processor than TinyG, and it runs its own firmware. Several
people use the Smoothie very successfully to control their CNC milling machines.

==== LinuxCNC ====
Unlike the other controllers so far, which are small microcontrollers fed the G-code
line by line from a computer, [http://www.linuxcnc.org/ LinuxCNC] runs on an ordinary PC, under the Linux operating system.
The PC needs to be dedicated to LinuxCNC. It needs to have a parallel port (a
true parallel port, not a USB-to-parallel adapter) or a specialized interface card.
LinuxCNC is an advanced controller, with nearly complete support of the G-code
language, including variables, flow control, spindle synchronization, canned cycles
and more.

The PC with LinuxCNC can be connected to an Arduino stepper motor driver shield,
but, more commonly, it is used with a breakout board (to make the connections easier)
and individual stepper motor drivers (the Toshiba TB6560 and TB6600 are popular
chips), or with a 4-axis motor "controller" (driver, really), such as the cheap
Chinese offerings on eBay, or the state-of-the-art [http://www.geckodrive.com/geckodrive-step-motor-drives/g540.html Gecko G540] 4-axis drive.

Many industrial machines run LinuxCNC. It was formerly known as EMC2.

==== Mach3 ====
Like LinuxCNC, [http://www.machsupport.com/software/mach3/ Mach3] runs on a dedicated PC and outputs control signal for the
motor drivers on the parallel port. Unlike LinuxCNC, it runs on Windows.
Mach3 is a commercial product and requires a license. It is popular on
industrial machines, and it's probably the most feature-rich controller software.

Also unlike LinuxCNC, Mach3 can run on a PC without a parallel port or expansion
card, because it can offload the generation of the driver control signals to an
external device connected via USB or Ethernet, such as the [http://www.warp9td.com/ SmoothStepper].

=== Our Products ===
We do not sell the USB cable for connecting the Arduino to the computer. You'll need
an A to B cable, ideally a good-quality, shielded cable with ferrite RFI suppressors.
Or you can try adding a RFI suppressor to an existing cable.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Option
!Product
!Store link
!Comments
|- style="background:#CED;"
!1
|Arduino Uno R3
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/arduino-uno-r3-with-optional-grbl.html visit]
|Runs the very popular GRBL firmware
|-
!2
|Ferrite RFI suppressor
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/split-bead-ferrite-rfi-suppressor.html visit]
|May help if USB connection drops randomly
|}
<onlyinclude>
== Stepper Motor Drivers ==

[[File:GAUPS 1.0 stepper shield assembled.jpg|thumb|right|x200px|GAUPS 1.0 shield (assembled)]]
</onlyinclude>[[File:GAUPS 1.0 stepper shield components.jpg|thumb|right|x200px|GAUPS 1.0 shield (parts)]]
=== Our Example ===
<onlyinclude>
Because our controller is an Arduino, the drivers will be on an
Arduino shield. We chose the GAUPS, a shield that takes Pololu-compatible
stepper driver modules (GAUPS stands for GRBL-compatible Arduino
Uno-compatible Pololu-compatible Shield). We don't
plan to use a supply voltage higher than 24 V, so we got the standard
version of the GAUPS, not the 40 V version.
</onlyinclude>
[[File:Pololu-DRV8825-purple-driver-carrier-board.jpg|thumb|left|x200px|Pololu DRV8825 module]]
[[File:Tall-headers.jpg|thumb|right|x200px|Tall headers]]
[[File:Motor-driver-heatsink-anodized-aluminium.jpg|thumb|left|x200px|Aluminium heatsink]]
<onlyinclude>Pololu driver modules are very convenient because they are relatively
inexpensive, easily replaceable if something goes wrong, and available
with a choice of driver chips. Their main disadvantage is that, because of
the small module size, their cooling is not as good as it could be, so they
need heatsinks and/or a fan.

The GAUPS comes as a kit that requires basic soldering skills to assemble.
All components are through-hole, and none are sensitive to static discharge,
so it's easy. There are clear step-by-step [[GAUPS 1.0 Instructions|instructions]].

For this machine, we chose four Pololu DRV8825 high-current driver modules
(the purple ones). They are the most expensive of the Pololu drivers, but
they have the highest current capability, and the best thermal
characteristics too. The A4988 black edition driver module is slightly
cheaper, but works very well too. Each driver comes with two 8-pin
male headers that you need to solder on. These are what plugs into the
shield. We opted to replace these with taller headers, for better airflow
under the modules.

The driver chips generate a lot of heat, and they are designed to sink this
heat into the bottom layer of the board. We added two small aluminium
heatsinks for each driver, one on top of the driver chip and one on the
bottom of the module. The one on the bottom is more effective than the
one on the top.
</onlyinclude>
=== More Choices ===
You can connect almost any controller to any motor driver, but some
combinations have been designed to work with each other (such as the
Arduino and the shield, or the PC with parallel port and the 4-axis
Gecko G540).

Shields compatible with the Arduino Uno include the buildlog.net
stepper shield and the GAUPS.

Pololu make two driver modules suitable for the eShapeoko: the A4988
"black edition" module, and the purple DRV8825 module.

Open-source versions exist: the Stepstick drivers — although the classic
Stepstick is limited to 1 A, so it will deliver lacklustre performance
in an eShapeoko. The market is inundated with numerous derivatives naming
themselves Stepstick, of varying design, PCB and build quality.
However, some have excellent
performance, such as the A4982-based Ice Blue Stepstick modules.

As mentioned above, there are lots of standalone drivers, 3-axis and
4-axis boards out there. The least expensive ones are based on the Toshiba
TB6560 chip. It is a good driver, but it is often used incorrectly
in the cheap Chinese boards (components with values outside
Toshiba's recommended range, slow optocouplers on the direction control
line that cause problems when used with GRBL, an error-prone automatic
current reducing circuit, and so on).

Products by Gecko Drive are wonderful and expensive and way overkill
for the eShapeoko. If you have loads of cash and want something
that's bulletproof, the G540 is a very nice unit.

=== Our Products ===
The parts suggested for our example machine are highlighted in green.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Product type
!Option
!Product name
!Manufacturer
!Store link
!Comments
|- style="background:#CED;"
!rowspan="4"|Driver shield
!1
|GAUPS 1.0 shield (kit, standard)
|A/S/L
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/gaups-1-0-arduino-compatible-stepper-shield-kit.html visit]
|Our own design. [[GAUPS 1.0 Instructions|Instructions here]]
|-
!2
|GAUPS 1.0 shield (kit, 50 V capacitors)
|A/S/L
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/gaups-1-0-arduino-compatible-stepper-shield-kit-50v.html visit]
|Our own design. Use with supply up to 40 V
|-
!3
|GAUPS 1.0 shield (PCB only)
|A/S/L
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/gaups-1-0-arduino-compatible-stepper-shield-pcb-only.html visit]
|If you already have the parts
|-
!4
|Buildlog.net driver shield (kit)
|Reactive Substance
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/buildlog-net-stepper-shield-complete-kit.html visit]
|Bart Dring's design
|-
!rowspan="3"|Driver module
!5
|Green A4988 driver module
|Pololu
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/pololu-a4988-stepper-driver-carrier-board-green.html visit]
|Poor thermal dissipation
|-
!6
|A4988 "black edition" driver module
|Pololu
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/pololu-a4988-stepper-driver-carrier-board-black-edition.html visit]
|Excellent
|- style="background:#CED;"
!7
|Purple DRV8825 high-current driver module
|Pololu
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/pololu-drv8825-high-current-stepper-driver-carrier-board-purple.html visit]
|Excellent. Slightly higher current
|-
!rowspan="2"|Heatsinks
!8
|Copper heatsink
|EnzoTech
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/copper-heatsink-for-stepper-driver.html visit]
|Very cool looking
|- style="background:#CED;"
!9
|Aluminium heatsink
|
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/aluminium-heatsink-for-stepper-driver.html visit]
|Boring but effective
|- style="background:#CED;"
!Other
!10
|Tall headers for Pololu modules
|
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/dual-body-25mm-1in-male-8-pin-tall-header-pololu-driver-pack-2.html visit]
|More effective cooling
|}
<onlyinclude>
== Power Supply ==

[[File:24V-120W-power-supply.jpg|thumb|right|x200px|120 W power supply]]
</onlyinclude>
=== Our Example ===
<onlyinclude>We chose a 24 V 5 A (120 W) power supply, which can be had as a nice,
completely enclosed laptop-type brick. We don't have to worry about
exposed live parts, nor about chips getting in. It has just enough power
for our motors. We used a barrel jack to screw terminal adapter to make
it easier to connect the supply to the GAUPS.
</onlyinclude>
=== More Choices ===
Ideally, with three NEMA 23 motors and one NEMA 17, we'd want at least 150 W
of supply, to be sure we have enough headroom. A 200 W cage-type power
supply is an inexpensive solution that
delivers more than enough power. 200 W is also about the highest power that is
commonly available in a fanless design. A cage-type supply should go in an
enclosure to avoid
all danger of electric shock (as they are, the mains input terminals aren't
protected enough against accidental contact with live parts).

We could also choose a 36 V supply instead of 24 V (and change the GAUPS to
the 40 V version), to allow the DRV8825 drivers to maybe squeeze a little
more performance out of the motors.

=== Our Products ===
The laptop-type power supply does not come with a power cord, so you'll have to
buy it separately. You need one with a IEC C5 (cloverleaf) connector.

The cage-type power supply does not come with a power cord either. When mounting
it in an enclosure, the best idea would be to install an IEC C14 receptacle on
the enclosure, and use an IEC C13 power cord (the type used with PCs). You could
also wire the power cord directly to the three input terminals.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Option
!Product name
!Manufacturer
!Store link
!Comments
|- style="background:#CED;"
!1
|24 V 120 W enclosed power supply
|LiteOn
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/24v-5a-120w-brick-power-supply.html visit]
|Just enough for three NEMA 23 motors and one NEMA 17 (barely). Plenty for four NEMA 17 motors. Safe and completely enclosed
|- style="background:#CED;"
!rowspan="2"|2
|rowspan="2"|Power cord for enclosed power supply
|rowspan="2"|
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/power-cord-uk-plug-bs1363-to-iec-c5-connector.html visit]
|UK plug (BS 1363)
|- style="background:#CED;"
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/power-cord-euro-plug-cee-7-7-to-iec-c5-connector.html visit]
|European "Schuko" plug (CEE 7/7)
|- style="background:#CED;"
!3
|Barrel connector to screw terminal adapter
|
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/power-jack-to-screw-terminal-adapter.html visit]
|Or cut off the connector from the 120 W supply and connect it directly to the screw terminal on the shield
|-
!4
|24 V 200 W cage-type power supply
|Mean Well
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/24v-8-3a-200w-mean-well-cage-type-power-supply.html visit]
|Plenty of power even for four NEMA 23 motors. Needs enclosure for complete electrical safety
|}
<onlyinclude>
== Fan ==

As mentioned above, it would be a good idea to have a fan to keep the
stepper drivers from overheating and going into thermal shutdown (which
keeps the drivers safe, but ruins the job). Not a lot of airflow is
needed, especially if directed both under and over the driver modules,
from a side. Our power supply is 24 V, but 12 V DC brushless fans are
ubiquitous and cheap because they are used in PCs, so we got a small
DC-DC step-down ("buck") converter to get the 12 V for the fan.
(Even if you have two identical fans, it's a bad idea to connect them
in series.)
</onlyinclude>
=== Our products ===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Option
!Product name
!Store link
!Comments
|- style="background:#CED;"
!1
|1.5 A adjustable voltage DC-DC converter
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/35v-adjustable-2a-dc-dc-converter.html visit]
|Compact. Enough for several fans
|-
!2
|3 A adjustable voltage DC-DC converter
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/50v-adjustable-3a-dc-dc-converter.html visit]
|Bulkier but more powerful
|- style="background:#CED;"
!3
|Brushless DC fan, 12 V
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/fan-12v-dc-brushless-50mm.html visit]
|Also available: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/fan-guard-50mm-dc-brushless-fan.html fan guard], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/screw-for-12v-dc-brushless-fan-4-pack.html mounting screws]
|}
<onlyinclude>
== Cables ==

[[File:Shielded-stepper-cable.jpg|thumb|right|x200px|Shielded stepper cable]]
</onlyinclude>
=== Our Example ===
<onlyinclude>The stepper motors come with wires that aren't nearly long enough.
We got very nice (if a bit stiff) 18 AWG (0.82 mm2) 4-core shielded cable.

Estimating the cable requirement can be very tricky, and depends a lot
on how the cable is routed. For this machine, we need about 8 m of
cable for the four steppers if we want to place the controller half a
metre away from the machine, to one side. The Y motor nearest the
controller will need the shortest cable, and the Z motor will need the
longest one.

We used 3 A terminal blocks to connect the cable to the
motors, and zip ties to secure the terminal blocks and the cable to the
machine. We'd actually prefer to solder the cable and use heat shrink
tubing to insulate the joints, but it is more difficult to solder wires
well than it is to solder a GAUPS kit, so we chose the easier method.
Plus, a broken or intermittent connection can destroy a motor driver.
The drivers are incredibly robust otherwise, but can be easily damaged by
their load being connected or disconnected while powered on, so it's
important to have good connection to the motors. We need four 4-position
terminal blocks, so we got two 12-position blocks, and cut them up.

At the driver end, we wired the stepper cables directly into the GAUPS
screw terminals.
</onlyinclude>
=== More Choices ===

For short runs, network cable (the multi-stranded type) can be used to
wire stepper motors. Tie two conductors in parallel for each motor wire.

The cable can be run in drag chains, which would give the machine a very
neat appearance.

=== Our Products ===

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Option
!Product name
!Manufacturer
!Store link
!Comments
|- style="background:#CED;"
!1
|4-core shielded stepper cable
|Alpha Wire
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/shielded-stepper-cable-4-core-18awg.html visit]
|Top-quality cable
|-
!2
|3 A 12-way terminal block
|
|coming soon
|Available from any hardware store
|-
!3
|Zip ties
|
|coming soon
|
|}
<onlyinclude>
== Spindle ==

We started with a cheap rotary tool (a Dremel clone). They usually come
with, literally, a hundred and one accessories — all largely useless
to us. Keep the wrench, though, you'll need it to tighten the collet.
Put a zip tie through an unused hole in an end plate or motor plate,
and store it there.
</onlyinclude>
You may want to upgrade the spindle soon, though. For tougher jobs,
and general use when not bothered by noise, the Makita RT0700C is an
excellent choice, except for the fact that a 3.175 mm (1/8 in) collet
is not easily available. You can buy one from the US, or use a 1/4 inch
to 1/8 inch adapter. Most trim routers are too big for the stock tool
mounts, so you will have to make your own, for example out of HDPE,
acetal, or even plywood.

For quiet, delicate jobs, a small DC spindle is very nice.
<onlyinclude>
== Tools ==

We got a basic 3.175 mm (1/8 in) straight two-flute center-cutting
solid carbide endmill. It's the closest one can get to a universal
endmill. It's
great with wood, plywood and MDF, gives good results with some plastics,
and can even be used — carefully — with aluminium. It's
just the right size for a standard rotary tool, and it's robust enough
not to break with the tiniest mistake. Buy more than one, though.

== Protection ==

Eye protection — for everyone in the room — is required
when using the milling machine.
Broken endmills can fly at high velocity in any direction.
Hearing protection is a very good idea. Do not wear
loose clothing, and keep long hair tied up. Avoid wearing gloves
(unless they're a type designed to tear off easily if caught in the
spindle).

Your safety, and that of the people around you, is your
responsibility.

== Waste Board ==

We could have got a piece of MDF from the offcut bin at the hardware
store, but Ikea had a shelf for their 100 cm PAX wardrobes in the
bargain corner. It's about 96 cm wide and 58 cm deep, which is a bit
too wide for our machine, but it was cheap and flat.

We drilled three holes through each of the front and rear pieces of
aluminium extrusion that connect the end plates together, and used
wood screws to screw the machine to the board. (Neat freaks can drill
and counter-bore from the bottom of the board, and use M5 screws and
T-slot insertion nuts to attach the machine to the board.)

We screwed a smaller piece of MDF on top of the shelf, between the
extrusions, to serve as an easily replaceable waste board. We plan
to mill some holes in this board, place some tee nuts in them,
turn it over, and have a nice hold-down table. But, for now, we use
wood screws to hold the parts down, and replace the MDF when it gets
too beaten up.

== Limit Switches ==

[[File:Limit homing microswitch.jpg|thumb|right|x200px|Limit switches]]
</onlyinclude>
=== Our Example ===
<onlyinclude>We installed six limit switches:
* two on the X axis, on the front X motor plate;
* two on the Y axis, on the Y motor plate closest to the controller;
* two on the Z axis, using the eShapeoko Z limit switch holder.

The switches come with mounting screws, washers and nuts. The
screws are M2 × 12 mm (tiny!).

[[File:Z-limit-switch-mounting-2.png|thumb|left|x200px|Mounting bracket for Z axis limit switches]]
We wired the switches using strips of ordinary 1.27 mm pitch ribbon
cable. They are soldered to the switch terminals, and the joints
insulated and reinforced with heat-shrink tubing. We opted to wire
all three terminals of each switch, each switch with its own wires,
because cable is cheap but re-wiring is time-consuming, and some
controllers need normally open switches, some normally closed (and
some can deal with either); our controller (GRBL) shares one input
for the two switches on each axis, but other controllers (TinyG)
have separate minimum and maximum limit inputs.

One switch on each axis does double-duty as a homing switch. Having
a repeatable home position is incredibly useful when changing tools
during a job, and when using fixtures and work coordinate systems.
By default, home is at the end of travel in the positive direction
of each axis, that is, right side (X), rear (Y), and top (Z).
</onlyinclude>
=== More Choices ===
At a minimum, we could have installed just the three homing switches.

The machine can be used without limit and homing switches, but you'll
find that the homing switches make your life much easier.

We could have installed two more limit switches on the Y axis,
on the other motor plate. GRBL can't make use of them, but other
controller software (LinuxCNC) can auto-square the gantry using
them, during the homing cycle.

You can use a different type of switch, but the motor plates and
Z limit switch holder are designed to work with this form factor.
The same kind of switch can also be bought with a lever arm, but,
for the eShapeoko, the lever is just a source of inaccuracy, and
that type of switch has no advantage over the no-lever version.

=== Our Products ===

We do not sell cable for the limit switches yet.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Option
!Product name
!Manufacturer
!Store link
!Comments
|- style="background:#CED;"
!1
|Limit and homing microswitch
|A/S/L
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/limit-and-homing-microswitch.html visit]
|Includes M2 hardware
|- style="background:#CED;"
!2
|Z axis limit switch mounting solution
|A/S/L
|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/z-limit-switch-mounting-solution-for-eshapeoko.html visit]
|
|}
<onlyinclude>
== Summary ==
=== Motors and Power Supply ===
Items highlighted in yellow are available from our store.

{| class="wikitable" align="center"
|-
!rowspan="2"|Item
!rowspan="2"|NEMA23 motors on all axes
!colspan="2"|NEMA23 on X and Y
!colspan="3"|NEMA17 motors on all axes
|-
!Faster Z
!Extra-precise Z
!Fast
!Precise
!Extra-precise Z
|- style="background:#FEA;"
!X and Y motors
|rowspan="2"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/51mm-nema23-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 23 0.9°]
|3 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/51mm-nema23-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 23 0.9°]
|3 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/51mm-nema23-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 23 0.9°]
|rowspan="2"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-1-7a-stepper-motor-200step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 1.8°]
|3 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 0.9°]
|rowspan="2"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 0.9°]
|- style="background:#FEA;"
!Z motor
|1 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-1-7a-stepper-motor-200step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 1.8°]
|1 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-stepper-motor-400step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 0.9°]
|1 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/48mm-nema17-1-7a-stepper-motor-200step-per-rev.html NEMA 17 1.8°]
|-
!rowspan="2"|Power supply
|rowspan="2" style="background:#FEA;"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/24v-8-3a-200w-mean-well-cage-type-power-supply.html 200 W cage-type]
|colspan="2" style="background:#FEA;"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/24v-8-3a-200w-mean-well-cage-type-power-supply.html 200 W cage-type]
|rowspan="2" colspan="3" style="background:#FEA;"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/24v-5a-120w-brick-power-supply.html 120 W brick] (power cord: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/power-cord-uk-plug-bs1363-to-iec-c5-connector.html UK], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/power-cord-euro-plug-cee-7-7-to-iec-c5-connector.html EU])
|-
|colspan="2" style="background:#FEA;"|'''''—or—''''' [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/24v-5a-120w-brick-power-supply.html 120 W brick] (power cord: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/power-cord-uk-plug-bs1363-to-iec-c5-connector.html UK], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/power-cord-euro-plug-cee-7-7-to-iec-c5-connector.html EU])
|}

=== Everything Else ===
Note that there is no correlation between columns in this table; you can pick any one item from each line.
Items highlighted in yellow are available from our store. We're working to add the remaining ones.

{| class="wikitable" align="center"
|- style="background:#FEA;"
!Controller
|colspan="6"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/arduino-uno-r3-with-optional-grbl.html Arduino Uno] (running [https://github.com/grbl/grbl GRBL]) (needs USB cable)
|- style="background:#FEA;"
!rowspan="5"|Drivers
|colspan="2"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/gaups-1-0-arduino-compatible-stepper-shield-kit.html GAUPS (standard)]
|colspan="2"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/gaups-1-0-arduino-compatible-stepper-shield-kit-50v.html GAUPS (40 V)]
|colspan="2"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/buildlog-net-stepper-shield-complete-kit.html buildlog.net shield]
|- style="background:#FEA;"
|colspan="3"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/pololu-a4988-stepper-driver-carrier-board-black-edition.html Pololu A4988 (black)]
|colspan="3"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/pololu-drv8825-high-current-stepper-driver-carrier-board-purple.html Pololu DRV8825 (purple)]
|- style="background:#FEA;"
|colspan="2"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/aluminium-heatsink-for-stepper-driver.html Aluminium heatsink]
|colspan="2"|8 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/aluminium-heatsink-for-stepper-driver.html Aluminium heatsink]
|colspan="2"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/copper-heatsink-for-stepper-driver.html Copper heatsink]
|- style="background:#FEA;"
|colspan="6"|4 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/dual-body-25mm-1in-male-8-pin-tall-header-pololu-driver-pack-2.html Tall headers] (optional)
|- style="background:#FEA;"
|colspan="6"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/power-jack-to-screw-terminal-adapter.html Barrel connector to screw terminal adapter]
|- style="background:#FEA;"
!rowspan="2"|Fan
|colspan="3"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/35v-adjustable-2a-dc-dc-converter.html Small DC-DC converter]
|colspan="3"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/50v-adjustable-3a-dc-dc-converter.html Larger DC-DC converter]
|-
|colspan="6" style="background:#FEA;"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/fan-12v-dc-brushless-50mm.html Brushless 12 V DC fan (PC type)] + [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/fan-guard-50mm-dc-brushless-fan.html fan guard] + [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/screw-for-12v-dc-brushless-fan-4-pack.html mounting screws]
|-
!rowspan="3"|Cabling
|colspan="2" style="background:#FEA;"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/shielded-stepper-cable-4-core-18awg.html Shielded cable]
|colspan="2"|CAT5 (stranded)
|colspan="2"|any 4-core cable 0.5 mm2 or more
|-
|colspan="3"|2 × 12-way 3 A terminal block (coming soon)
|colspan="3"|solder and heatshrink tubing
|-
|colspan="6"|Zip ties (coming soon)
|- style="background:#FEA;"
!rowspan="3"|Limit switches
|colspan="6"|6 × [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/limit-and-homing-microswitch.html Microswitch] (or 8 of them, or only 3)
|- style="background:#FEA;"
|colspan="6"|[http://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/z-limit-switch-mounting-solution-for-eshapeoko.html Mounting bracket for Z axis limit siwtches]
|-
|colspan="2"|Ribbon cable
|colspan="2"|shielded signal cable
|colspan="2"|almost any type of cable
|}
Also: spindle, tools (endmills, engraving bits etc), waste board, eye and hearing protection.
</onlyinclude>

EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly Instructions

2017-04-20T22:00:29Z

Admin:

We have tried to make these instructions as clear and easy to follow as
possible. However, even with the benefit of the simplicity of the
MakerSlide system, it is still a fairly complex machine, with many parts,
so the assembly can be daunting. To make it easier, we broke it down
into fairly small steps.

We welcome questions, corrections, and suggestions for improvement.

The instructions aim to cover all options and features, including some
alternate motor mounting options and belt and idler configurations.

Compared to version 1.2, the Z axis has been updated, with a new motor
plate and a new type of bearing. This simplifies assembly considerably.

During the build, it's easier to keep the small parts in their bags
until needed.

Please pay attention to the washers: follow the instructions exactly.

== Jump To ==

* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Prep work|Prep work]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: V-wheels|V-wheels]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Smooth idler wheels|Smooth idler wheels]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: X and Y motors|X and Y motors]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Y carriages|Y carriages]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: X rail|X rail]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: X carriage|X carriage]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Gantry|Gantry]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Frame|Frame]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Z leadscrew|Z leadscrew]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Z motor|Z motor]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Z rail|Z rail]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Spindle mounts|Spindle mounts]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: X belt|X belt]]
* [[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Y belts|Y belts]]

GAUPS 1.0 Instructions

2017-04-19T22:35:41Z

Admin:

== Open Source ==

GAUPS is derived from Bart Dring's open-source [http://buildlog.net/ Buildlog.net] Arduino-compatible Stepper Motor Driver Shield rev 3. Thank you, Bart!

GAUPS is open-source hardware, released under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 License. KiCAD files will be available here soon.

== Assembly ==

It's easiest to assemble the board in the order of component height, leaving the tallest last. For the parts with long leads, trim them as soon as you've soldered them (do not trim the Arduino headers, obviously). The instructions assume the board is held with the driver labels ("X AXIS" etc) the right way up, as shown.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Step
!Part Image and Instructions
!Board Image
|-
!rowspan="2" | 1
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_R1.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_Assembly_01_R1.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder R1 (10 kΩ resistor). Color code: [[File:Ra.png|link=]][[File:Rb1.png|link=]][[File:Rc.png|link=]][[File:Rd0.png|link=]][[File:Re.png|link=]][[File:Rd0.png|link=]][[File:Re.png|link=]][[File:Rd2.png|link=]][[File:Rf.png|link=]][[File:Rb1.png|link=]][[File:Rg.png|link=]] (1%) or [[File:Ra.png|link=]][[File:Rb1.png|link=]][[File:Rc.png|link=]][[File:Rd0.png|link=]][[File:Re.png|link=]][[File:Rd3.png|link=]][[File:Rf.png|link=]][[File:RbG.png|link=]][[File:Rg.png|link=]] (5%).
|-
!rowspan="2" | 2
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_SW1.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_Assembly_02_SW1.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder SW1 (12-way DIP switch). Orient it numbers to the left, "ON" text in the upper-right corner. The 1, 2 and 3 labels will match the 1, 2 and 3 silkscreen labels for the A axis.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 3
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_SW2.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_Assembly_03_SW2.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder SW2 (push-button), taking care not to overheat it.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 4
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_C1-C4.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_Assembly_04_C1-C4.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder C1, C2, C3, C4 (47 µF 35 V capacitors), paying attention to the orientation. Install with the negative terminal (shorter lead, marked with a stripe on the body of the capacitor) toward the middle of the board.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 5
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_C5-C8.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_Assembly_05_C5-C8.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder C5, C6, C7, C8 (100 nF capacitors). These are not polarized, so orientation doesn't matter.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 6
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_U1-U4.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_Assembly_06_U1-U4.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder the eight 8-way female headers for the drivers.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 7
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_JP1.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_Assembly_07_JP1.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder JP1 (2×3-pin male header). The holes for it are very tight (sorry!). The best way is to push it in with a flat, rigid object.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 8
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_J1-J4.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_Assembly_08_J1-J4.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Solder the two 6-way and two 8-way Arduino stacking headers, taking care to not to deposit solder on the long pins (except where they meet the PCB, of course). Make sure the pins are straight and parallel before soldering them.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 9
|align="center" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_J1,_J2,_J5_apart.jpg|200px]][[File:GAUPS_1.0_J3,_J4_apart.jpg|200px]] [[File:GAUPS_1.0_J1,_J2,_J5_joined.jpg|200px]][[File:GAUPS_1.0_J3,_J4_joined.jpg|200px]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_Assembly_09_P1-P5.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Join one 2-way and two 4-way screw terminals, by sliding the little dovetails into the slots. Solder them as P5, P1 and P2, with the openings for the wires toward the outside of the board. Join the remaining two 4-way screw terminals. Solder them as P3 and P4.
|-
!rowspan="2" | 10
|[[File:GAUPS_1.0_Jumpers.jpg|200px|center]]
|rowspan="2" | [[File:GAUPS_1.0_Assembly_10_JP1_DY_jumpers.jpg|450px]]
|-
|Install two jumpers on JP1, either in the DY position (shown) or the A position (not shown). See [[#Jumper Settings|jumper settings]] below. Please note the orientation of the jumpers: they're vertical. Check all the soldering, remove any loose bits of solder, insert into the Arduino Uno, and you're done!
|}

== Driver Orientation ==

'''Please pay attention to driver orientation!''' A driver inserted backwards will be destroyed instantly when the power is turned on.

Driver pin VMOT (motor supply voltage) is marked with an arrow on the silkscreen (please note that this is different from the beta version). The motor outputs (1A, 1B, 2A, 2B) face the respective screw terminals. The electrolytic capacitor is near the VMOT pin, and the yellow ceramic capacitor is near the VDD pin. The digital inputs are toward the middle of the board.

Note that two drivers (X and Y) are oriented one way, the other two (Z and A) the other way.

== Jumper Settings ==

For Dual-Y operation, the A driver takes the same control signals (STEP and DIR) as the Y driver, acting as a second Y driver instead of a fourth independent axis. Install two jumpers in the positions marked 'DY' on the board.

For 4-axis operation (or spindle relay in the A axis slot, instead of a driver), STEP and DIR for the A driver come from Arduino pins D12 and D13. Install two jumpers in the positions marked 'A' on the board.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!colspan="5"|JP1
|-
!colspan="2"|Dual-Y
|rowspan="4"|  
!colspan="2"|4 axes
|-
!•
!•
!rowspan="2" style="color: white; background-color: blue;"|• •
!rowspan="2" style="color: white; background-color: blue;"|• •
|-
!rowspan="2" style="color: white; background-color: blue;"|• •
!rowspan="2" style="color: white; background-color: blue;"|• •
|-
!•
!•
|}

Note that, in either case, the jumpers are vertical (parallel to the short edge of the board).

== Switch Settings ==

DIP switches are OFF to the left (the side of the switch with the numbers), ON to the right (the side labelled "ON").

Microstepping is controlled independently for each of the four drivers.
Each driver has three switches associated with it.
The silkscreen shows which switches apply to which driver.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!colspan="4"|SW1 switch
|
!colspan="5"|''A4988 and DRV8825''
!''A4988''
!colspan="2"|''DRV8825''
|
!colspan="5"|''DRV8834''
|-
!X axis
!Y axis
!Z axis
!A axis
|
!Pin name
!1 ×
!2 ×
!4 ×
!8 ×
!16 ×
!16 ×
!32 ×
|
!Pin name
!2 ×
!4 ×
!16 ×
!32 ×
|-
!10
!4
!7
!1
|
!''MS1''
|OFF     
|      ON
|OFF
|      ON
|      ON
|OFF
|      ON
|
!''M0''
|      ON
|OFF
|      ON
|OFF
|-
!11
!5
!8
!2
|
!''MS2''
|OFF
|OFF
|      ON
|      ON
|      ON
|OFF
|      ON
|
!''M1''
|OFF
|OFF     
|      ON
|      ON
|-
!12
!6
!9
!3
|
!''MS3''
|OFF
|OFF
|OFF
|OFF
|      ON
|      ON
|      ON
|
!''(CFG)''
|colspan="4" align="center"|''not used''
|}

For instance, to set a DRV8825 driver on the Z axis to 8 × microstepping,
set switches 7 on, 8 on, 9 off. In the Dual Y configuration, it's simplest to
use the same type of driver and motor for both the Y axes (Y and A), and use
the same microstepping configuration for both (switches 1–3 same as switches 4–6).

Note that it is not possible to select all microstepping combinations for the DRV8834
low-voltage stepper motor driver (1 × and 8 × would require pin
M0 to be held low).

=== gShield/grblShield Compatibility ===

To make a GAUPS behave exactly like a gShield (or an older grblShield with the Z-axis hack),
so that one can use the same settings for GRBL, set X and Y to 8 × microstepping,
and Z to 2 ×:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!1
|      ON
|-
!2
|      ON
|-
!3
|OFF
|-
!4
|      ON
|-
!5
|      ON
|-
!6
|OFF
|-
!7
|      ON
|-
!8
|OFF
|-
!9
|OFF
|-
!10
|      ON
|-
!11
|      ON
|-
!12
|OFF
|}

== Connections ==

The motor screw terminals are connected to the driver outputs nearest to them, in the same order.

The motor power supply input is P5, the two bottom screw terminals in the block of ten on the left side of the board. Positive is next to the X axis motor terminals, negative at the bottom edge of the board. Please note that this is different from the beta version. The polarity is marked on the silkscreen on the back of the board (there was no room on the front).

'''Do not make or break any connections while the board or the Arduino are powered.''' There is a high risk of destroying the drivers and/or the Arduino.

[[File:GAUPS 1.0 Example Wiring.jpg|none|600px|thumb|GAUPS 1.0 Example Configuration]]

This image (click on it to enlarge) shows an example configuration:
* Four drivers and four motors
* Dual-Y (two Y motors, each with its own driver)
* 16 × microstepping on the X and Y axes
* Half-stepping (2 ×) on the Z axis
* Pololu A4988 green drivers (note that other driver modules may have the trimpot in a different location, so do not use it to decide the driver module orientation. Always check the pin labels).

[[File:GAUPS_1.0_stepper_shield_PCB_bottom.jpg|300px|right|thumb|Bottom of GAUPS 1.0 PCB, showing supply polarity]]
Also, when using GRBL 0.8 or 0.9 with the "invert mask" set to 0,
Pololu A4988 green or black drivers, and the motors we carry in our
store, wired as shown, for a move in the positive direction of each
axis, the motors turn as follows (as viewed looking into the shaft):
{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Axis
!Motor
!Axis Positive Direction
!Motor Direction
|-
!X
!
|Right
|Counter-clockwise
|-
!rowspan="2" | Y
!Left (Y driver)
|rowspan="2" |Toward the back
|Counter-clockwise
|-
!Right (A driver)
|Clockwise
|-
!Z
!
|Up
|Clockwise
|}

This is the standard direction of travel for a dual-motor dual-Y drive eShapeoko
with any of the standard eShapeoko belt configurations (teeth down, belt going
under the idler wheels and over the belt pulley). This is also valid for a
Shapeoko with any of the belt mods that have the belt facing teeth down. For
the original Shapeoko configuration (belt teeth up, going over the idler wheels
and under the belt pulley) and any other teeth up configuration, reverse the
direction of X and Y motors (by reversing the connections,
black–green–blue–red instead of
red–blue–green–black).

Note that not all motors from all manufacturers turn in the same direction when
wired the same, although this seems to be the most common case. If your motor
has different color wires, always determine the correct pairing before wiring
the motors, to avoid damage to the drivers. Any configuration will work, as long
as the wires in each pair are next to each other (pins 1 and 2 one pair,
pins 3 and 4 another pair).

Also note that driver modules other than Pololu A4988 may turn the motors
in the opposite direction, too, and the direction can also be changed in firmware.

== Power Supply ==

The choice of voltage depends on the driver modules. The kit of parts, as
supplied, has capacitors rated at 35 V, so that's the maximum voltage. However,
the capacitors can be replaced.

With A4988 drivers, the maximum voltage is 35 V, but EMF induced in the motor
during braking can raise the supply voltage, so we do not recommend using more
than 30 V. The DRV8825 drivers are rated to 45 V, but, for the same reason,
we do not recommend more than 40 V (provided that the capacitors on the GAUPS
have been replaced with ones rated 50 V or more).

A4988 and DRV8825 both work from 12 V, but the most popular voltage for them
is 24 V. 19 V is also popular, because it's the typical voltage of a laptop
power supply, and many people have one of those lying around.

The DRV8834 driver operates from 2.5 V to 10.8 V, so it's ideal for low-voltage
applications.

== Part List ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Part
!Count
!Description
!Manufacturer
!Part Number
|-
|PCB
|1
|GAUPS 1.0 PCB, dual-side 1.6 mm FR4, through-plated, ENIG, RoHS
|Amber Spyglass Ltd
|—
|-
|R1
|1
|Resistor, 10 kΩ 0.125 W, metal film
|Multicomp
|MF12 10K
|-
|C1–C4
|4
|Aluminium electrolytic capacitor, 47 µF 35 V, long life (5000 hours @ 105°C), radial, 2.5 mm lead spacing, ∅ 8 mm, 5 mm tall
|Rubycon
|35ML47MEFC8X5
|-
|C5–C8
|4
|Ceramic capacitor, 100 nF 50 V, X7R dielectric, 0.2" lead spacing
|Multicomp
|MCRR50104X7RK0050
|-
|SW1
|1
|Low-profile 12-way DIP switch, 0.1" pitch, 0.3" wide
|Multicomp *
|MCEI-12
|-
|SW2
|1
|Tactile switch, 6 mm
|Panasonic
|EVQPVG05K
|-
|JP1
|1
|6-way dual-row male 0.1" pitch header, straight
|AMP *
|826925-3
|-
|Jumper
|2
|Jumper for 0.1" pitch header, blue
|Harwin *
|M7583-05
|-
|U1–U4
|8
|8-way single-row female 0.1" pitch header, straight
|Multicomp *
|2212S-08SG-85
|-
|J1, J2
|2
|6-way single-row long pin (15 mm) female 0.1" pitch headers, straight
|Samtec *
|SSQ-106-04-F-S
|-
|J3, J4
|2
|8-way single-row long pin (15 mm) female 0.1" pitch headers, straight
|Samtec *
|SSQ-108-04-F-S
|-
|P1–P4
|4
|4-way side-entry PCB screw terminal, 5 mm pitch
|Camden Boss
|CTB5202/4
|-
|P5
|1
|2-way side-entry PCB screw terminal, 5 mm pitch
|Camden Boss
|CTB5202/2
|}

For most components, numerous equivalent parts exist from various manufacturers.
The given manufacturers and part numbers are just examples of compatible parts. However, except
where marked with an asterisk, the supplied parts in our kit are exactly those listed here (those
with an asterisk are generic equivalents). This is especially important for the long-life
electrolytic capacitors of the correct form factor, and for the good quality screw terminals.
Also important are the long (15 mm pins) Arduino headers; the typical Arduino headers with
10–12 mm pins are not tall enough for the solder joints on the back of the shield to
clear the Arduino USB connector, and insulation is required.

We reserve the right to substitute parts without notice.

== Schematic ==
[[File:GAUPS 1.0 schematic.png|900px]]

Main Page

2016-12-07T13:33:14Z

Admin:

== eShapeoko ==

The eShapeoko is an affordable three-axis desktop CNC milling machine. It is a clone of Edward Ford's tremendously successful Shapeoko 1 and 2, with some changes. Much of the low-cost aspect we owe to Bart Dring, who invented MakerSlide, a simple and inexpensive linear bearing system that doubles as structural support.

eShapeoko is sold in kit form. For now, only a [http://store.amberspyglass.co.uk/eshapeoko-mechanical-kit.html Mechanical Kit] is available. In addition to that, you need four stepper motors, a power supply, and the electronics to drive the motors: please read [[EShapeoko Complete Kit|this guide]].

== Resources ==

[[V-wheel and Idler Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko FAQ]]

[[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.4.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.4.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.3 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.3.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.3.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.2 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.2 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.1%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.1], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.3%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.3], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.4%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.4]

[[EShapeoko Complete Kit]]

[[Camera Slider Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

[[Camera Slider Assembly Instructions]]

[[Motor Drivers]] (inlcuding GAUPS)

[https://github.com/amberspyglass/parts Part Drawings] (including eShapeoko 1.x and the camera slider)

Some information about [[Stepper Motors]]

=== Older Kits ===

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Dual-X Assembly Notes]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 NEMA23 upgrades]]

[http://blog.amberspyglass.co.uk/2013/12/20/eshapeoko-packing-list/eshapeoko-v1-1-packing-list/ EShapeoko 1.1 Packing List]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

We are adding more information here every now and then. In the meantime, a wealth of information and generous help await at the [http://shapeoko.com/forum/ Shapeoko forum].

The eShapeoko is based on the [http://shapeoko.com Shapeoko] by Edward Ford, and open-source project. The eShapeoko is designed by Cătălin Voinescu. It is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license.

Main Page

2016-12-07T13:33:02Z

Admin:

== eShapeoko ==

The eShapeoko is an affordable three-axis desktop CNC milling machine. It is a clone of Edward Ford's tremendously successful Shapeoko 1 and 2, with some changes. Much of the low-cost aspect we owe to Bart Dring, who invented MakerSlide, a simple and inexpensive linear bearing system that doubles as structural support.

eShapeoko is sold in kit form. For now, only a [http://store.amberspyglass.co.uk/eshapeoko-mechanical-kit.html Mechanical Kit] is available. In addition to that, you need four stepper motors, a power supply, and the electronics to drive the motors: please read [[EShapeoko Complete Kit|this guide]].

== Resources ==

[[V-wheel and Idler Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko FAQ]]

[[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.3.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.4.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.3 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.3.0%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.3.0]

[[EShapeoko 1.2 Assembly Instructions]]

EShapeoko 1.2 Packing Lists: [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.1%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.1], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.2%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.2], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.3%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.3], [http://amberspyglass.co.uk/resources/packing-lists/eShapeoko%20v1.2.4%20Packing%20List.pdf 1.2.4]

[[EShapeoko Complete Kit]]

[[Camera Slider Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

[[Camera Slider Assembly Instructions]]

[[Motor Drivers]] (inlcuding GAUPS)

[https://github.com/amberspyglass/parts Part Drawings] (including eShapeoko 1.x and the camera slider)

Some information about [[Stepper Motors]]

=== Older Kits ===

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Assembly Instructions]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Dual-X Assembly Notes]]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 NEMA23 upgrades]]

[http://blog.amberspyglass.co.uk/2013/12/20/eshapeoko-packing-list/eshapeoko-v1-1-packing-list/ EShapeoko 1.1 Packing List]

[[EShapeoko 1.0 and 1.1 Mechanical Kit Parts List]]

We are adding more information here every now and then. In the meantime, a wealth of information and generous help await at the [http://shapeoko.com/forum/ Shapeoko forum].

The eShapeoko is based on the [http://shapeoko.com Shapeoko] by Edward Ford, and open-source project. The eShapeoko is designed by Cătălin Voinescu. It is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license.

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Y Belts

2016-09-29T15:02:42Z

Admin:

For this step, you need the remaining two belt tensioners and two screws from '''Pack 11''', and the Y belts from '''Pack 12'''. The Y belts are 250 mm longer than your Y axis. You [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Prep Work#Tap|should have tapped]] the lone hole of the belt tensioners.

Please follow the same instructions as for the X belt, using the end plates instead of the belt anchor plates. Install the belt tensioners at the rear of the machine, to keep them out of the way.

{{Note|The belt anchors have four slots and the end plates have three. The three slots in the end plates correspond to the top three slots of the belt anchors. The bottom slot of the belt anchor plate is not used.}}

== Go To ==

* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Spindle Mounts|Spindle mounts]]
* Previous step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Belt|X belt]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Belt

2016-09-29T15:01:43Z

Admin:

For this step, you need one belt tensioner and one screw from '''Pack 11''', and the X belt from '''Pack 12'''. The X belt is 250 mm longer than your X axis. You [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Prep Work#Tap|should have tapped]] the lone hole of the belt tensioner.

== NEMA 17 Motors ==

[[File:Belt-2-01.jpg|600px]]

Insert the belt about 60 mm into the slot nearest the tapped hole, teeth facing away from the hole.

[[File:Belt-2-02.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the third slot.

[[File:Belt-2-03.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the second slot.

[[File:Belt-2-04.jpg|600px]]

Pressing on the small loop between the second and third slot with a finger, pull on the long end of the belt, guiding the short end into the first slot too.

[[File:Belt-2-05.jpg|600px]]

The result should look like this.

[[File:Belt-2-06.jpg|600px]]

Thread the free end of the belt through the top slot of the belt anchor, teeth down.

[[File:Belt-2-07.jpg|600px]]

Route the belt under the idlers and over and around the belt pulley. Thread it through the top slot of the opposite belt anchor. Make sure the tensioner at the other end is flush with the anchor plate. Pull on the free end of the belt to take up all the slack, and mark the belt where it exits the slot. (Permanent marker leaves a mark visible in good light — even black on black.)

[[File:Belt-2-08.jpg|600px]]

Take the belt off the belt pulley so that you have more belt to work with. Slide it in a little more.

[[File:Belt-2-09.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the third slot of the belt anchor.

[[File:Belt-2-10.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the slot between the other two.

[[File:Belt-2-11.jpg|600px]]

Line up the belt so that there's about 12 mm (six teeth) between the bottom slot and the mark on the belt. Holding the loop on the other side of the anchor with a finger, pull back on the belt, guiding the end so that it goes into the first slot. Check that the mark lines up with the top slot again. If it doesn't, loosen the belt, adjust its position in the second and third slots, and repeat.

[[File:Belt-2-12.jpg|600px]]

It should look like this from the other side, although your belt may be a little longer. You can trim it once you've tensioned the belt satisfactorily.

Put the belt back on the idlers and pulley. It's easier to do the belt pulley first, then the idlers. If it's not possible to put the belt back on the pulley and idlers because it's too tight, redo the looping through the belt anchor, giving the belt 2–4 mm of extra slack (1–2 teeth). If the belt has too much slack, redo the looping to take some up. The belt should be as short as possible while still able to be put back on the idlers and pulley.

Put one M5 × 14 mm screw in the top hole of the belt tensioner, and tighten it to force the tensioner apart from the anchor plate. This tightens the belt. The belt should be reasonably taut, but do not overdo it — the tensioner is tougher than the belt! Too tight a belt results in excessive friction, and premature wear of the belt and the bearings of the motor. However, a loose belt reduces precision, because it's a source of backlash, and can even skip teeth under load.

== NEMA 23 Motors ==

[[File:Belt-3-01.jpg|600px]]

Insert the belt about 60 mm into the slot nearest the tapped hole, teeth facing toward the hole.

[[File:Belt-3-02.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the third slot.

[[File:Belt-3-03.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the second slot.

[[File:Belt-3-04.jpg|600px]]

Pressing on the small loop between the second and third slot with a finger, pull on the long end of the belt, guiding the short end into the first slot too.

[[File:Belt-3-05.jpg|600px]]

The result should look like this.

[[File:Belt-3-06.jpg|600px]]

Thread the free end of the belt through the third slot from the top of the belt anchor, teeth down.

[[File:Belt-3-07.jpg|600px]]

Route the belt under the idlers and over and around the belt pulley. Thread it through the third slot from the top of the opposite belt anchor. Make sure the tensioner at the other end is flush with the anchor plate. Pull on the free end of the belt to take up all the slack, and mark the belt where it exits the slot. (Permanent marker leaves a mark visible in good light — even black on black.)

[[File:Belt-3-08.jpg|600px]]

Take the belt off the belt pulley so that you have more belt to work with. Slide it in a little more. Copy the mark to the other side of the belt too.

[[File:Belt-3-09.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the top slot of the belt anchor.

[[File:Belt-3-10.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the middle slot.

[[File:Belt-3-11.jpg|600px]]

Line up the belt so that there's about 12 mm (six teeth) between the top slot and the mark on the belt. Pressing on the small loop on the other side of the anchor with a finger, pull back on the belt, guiding the end so that it goes into the third slot. Check that the mark lines up with the third slot again. If it doesn't, loosen the belt, adjust its position in the first and second slots, and repeat.

[[File:Belt-3-12.jpg|600px]]

It should look like this from the other side, although your belt may be a little longer. You can trim it once you've tensioned the belt satisfactorily.

Put the belt back on the idlers and pulley. It's easier to do the belt pulley first, then the idlers. If it's not possible to put the belt back on the pulley and idlers because it's too tight, redo the looping through the belt anchor, giving the belt 2–4 mm of extra slack (1–2 teeth). If the belt has too much slack, redo the looping to take some up. The belt should be as short as possible while still able to be put back on the idlers and pulley.

Put one M5 × 14 mm screw in the bottom hole of the belt tensioner, and tighten it to force the tensioner apart from the anchor plate. This tightens the belt. The belt should be reasonably taut, but do not overdo it — the tensioner is tougher than the belt! Too tight a belt results in excessive friction, and premature wear of the belt and the bearings of the motor. However, a loose belt reduces precision, because it's a source of backlash, and can even skip teeth under load.

== Go To ==

* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Y Belts|Y belts]]
* Previous step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Z Rail|Z rail]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Belt

2016-09-29T14:54:31Z

Admin:

For this step, you need one belt tensioner and one screw from '''Pack 11''', and the X belt from '''Pack 12'''. The X belt is 250 mm longer than your X axis. You [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Prep Work#Tap|should have tapped]] the lone hole of the belt tensioner.

== NEMA 17 Motors ==

[[File:Belt-2-01.jpg|600px]]

Insert the belt about 60 mm into the slot nearest the tapped hole, teeth facing away from the hole.

[[File:Belt-2-02.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the third slot.

[[File:Belt-2-03.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the second slot.

[[File:Belt-2-04.jpg|600px]]

Pressing on the small loop between the second and third slot with a finger, pull on the long end of the belt, guiding the short end into the first slot too.

[[File:Belt-2-05.jpg|600px]]

The result should look like this.

[[File:Belt-2-06.jpg|600px]]

Thread the free end of the belt through the top slot of the belt anchor, teeth down.

[[File:Belt-2-07.jpg|600px]]

Route the belt under the idlers and over and around the belt pulley. Thread it through the top slot of the opposite belt anchor. (For the Y axis, the second slot from the top of the end plate.) Make sure the tensioner at the opposite end is flush with the anchor plate. Pull on the free end of the belt to take up all the slack, and mark the belt where it exits the slot. (Permanent marker leaves a mark visible in good light, even black on black.)

[[File:Belt-2-08.jpg|600px]]

Take the belt off the belt pulley so that you have more belt to work with. Slide it in a little more.

[[File:Belt-2-09.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the third slot of the belt anchor.

[[File:Belt-2-10.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the middle slot.

[[File:Belt-2-11.jpg|600px]]

Line up the belt so that there's about 12 mm (six teeth) between the bottom slot and the mark on the belt. Holding the loop on the other side of the anchor with a finger, pull back on the belt, guiding the end so that it goes into the first slot. Check that the mark lines up with the top slot again. If it doesn't, loosen the belt, adjust its position in the second and third slots, and repeat.

[[File:Belt-2-12.jpg|600px]]

It should look like this from the other side, although your belt may be a little longer. You can trim it once you've tensioned the belt satisfactorily.

Put the belt back on the idlers and pulley. It's easier to do the belt pulley first, then the idlers. If it's not possible to put the belt back on the pulley and idlers because it's too tight, redo the looping through the belt anchor, giving the belt 2–4 mm of extra slack (1–2 teeth). If the belt has too much slack, redo the looping to take some up. The belt should be as short as possible while still able to be put back on the idlers and pulley.

Put one M5 × 14 mm screw in the top hole of the belt tensioner, and tighten it to force the tensioner apart from the anchor plate. This tightens the belt. The belt should be reasonably taut, but do not overdo it — the tensioner is tougher than the belt! Too tight a belt results in excessive friction, and premature wear of the belt and the bearings of the motor. However, a loose belt reduces precision, because it's a source of backlash.

== NEMA 23 Motors ==

[[File:Belt-3-01.jpg|600px]]

Insert the belt about 60 mm into the slot nearest the tapped hole, teeth facing toward the hole.

[[File:Belt-3-02.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the third slot.

[[File:Belt-3-03.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the second slot.

[[File:Belt-3-04.jpg|600px]]

Pressing on the small loop between the second and third slot with a finger, pull on the long end of the belt, guiding the short end into the first slot too.

[[File:Belt-3-05.jpg|600px]]

The result should look like this.

[[File:Belt-3-06.jpg|600px]]

Thread the free end of the belt through the third slot from the top of the belt anchor, teeth down.

[[File:Belt-3-07.jpg|600px]]

Route the belt under the idlers and over and around the belt pulley. Thread it through the third slot from the top of the opposite belt anchor. Make sure the tensioner at the opposite end is flush with the anchor plate. Pull on the free end of the belt to take up all the slack, and mark the belt where it exits the slot. (Permanent marker leaves a mark visible in good light, even black on black.)

[[File:Belt-3-08.jpg|600px]]

Take the belt off the belt pulley so that you have more belt to work with. Slide it in a little more. Mark the other side of the belt too.

[[File:Belt-3-09.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the top slot of the belt anchor.

[[File:Belt-3-10.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the middle slot.

[[File:Belt-3-11.jpg|600px]]

Line up the belt so that there's about 12 mm (six teeth) between the top slot and the mark on the belt. Holding the loop on the other side of the anchor with a finger, pull back on the belt, guiding the end so that it goes into the third slot. Check that the mark lines up with the third slot again. If it doesn't, loosen the belt, adjust its position in the first and second slots, and repeat.

[[File:Belt-3-12.jpg|600px]]

It should look like this from the other side, although your belt may be a little longer. You can trim it once you've tensioned the belt satisfactorily.

Put the belt back on the idlers and pulley. It's easier to do the belt pulley first, then the idlers. If it's not possible to put the belt back on the pulley and idlers because it's too tight, redo the looping through the belt anchor, giving the belt 2–4 mm of extra slack (1–2 teeth). If the belt has too much slack, redo the looping to take some up. The belt should be as short as possible while still able to be put back on the idlers and pulley.

Put one M5 × 14 mm screw in the bottom hole of the belt tensioner, and tighten it to force the tensioner apart from the anchor plate. This tightens the belt. The belt should be reasonably taut, but do not overdo it — the tensioner is tougher than the belt! Too tight a belt results in excessive friction, and premature wear of the belt and the bearings of the motor. However, a loose belt reduces precision, because it's a source of backlash.

== Go To ==

* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Y Belts|Y belts]]
* Previous step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Z Rail|Z rail]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Y Belts

2016-09-29T14:52:00Z

Admin:

For this step, you need the remaining two belt tensioners and two screws from '''Pack 11''', and the Y belts from '''Pack 12'''. The Y belts are 250 mm longer than your Y axis. You [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Prep Work#Tap|should have tapped]] the lone hole of the belt tensioners.

Please follow the same instructions as for the X belt, using the end plates instead of the belt anchor plates. Install the belt tensioners at the rear of the machine, to keep them out of the way.

{{Warning|The belt anchors have four slots and the end plates have three. The three slots in the end plates correspond to the top three slots of the belt anchors. The bottom slot of the belt anchor plate is not used.}}

== Go To ==

* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Spindle Mounts|Spindle mounts]]
* Previous step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Belt|X belt]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Belt

2016-09-29T14:42:40Z

Admin:

For this step, you need one belt tensioner and one screw from '''Pack 11''', and the X belt from '''Pack 12'''. The X belt is 250 mm longer than your X axis. You [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Prep Work#Tap|should have tapped]] the lone hole of the belt tensioner.

== NEMA 17 Motors ==

[[File:Belt-2-01.jpg|600px]]

Insert the belt about 60 mm into the slot nearest the tapped hole, teeth facing away from the hole.

[[File:Belt-2-02.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the third slot.

[[File:Belt-2-03.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the second slot.

[[File:Belt-2-04.jpg|600px]]

Pressing on the small loop between the second and third slot with a finger, pull on the long end of the belt, guiding the short end into the first slot too.

[[File:Belt-2-05.jpg|600px]]

The result should look like this.

[[File:Belt-2-06.jpg|600px]]

Thread the free end of the belt through the top slot of the belt anchor, teeth down. (For the Y axis, it's the second slot from the top of the end plate.)

[[File:Belt-2-07.jpg|600px]]

Route the belt under the idlers and over and around the belt pulley. Thread it through the top slot of the opposite belt anchor. (For the Y axis, the second slot from the top of the end plate.) Make sure the tensioner at the opposite end is flush with the anchor plate. Pull on the free end of the belt to take up all the slack, and mark the belt where it exits the slot. (Permanent marker leaves a mark visible in good light, even black on black.)

[[File:Belt-2-08.jpg|600px]]

Take the belt off the belt pulley so that you have more belt to work with. Slide it in a little more.

[[File:Belt-2-09.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the third slot of the belt anchor. (For the Y axis, this is the fourth slot from the top.)

[[File:Belt-2-10.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the middle slot.

[[File:Belt-2-11.jpg|600px]]

Line up the belt so that there's about 12 mm (six teeth) between the bottom slot and the mark on the belt. Holding the loop on the other side of the anchor with a finger, pull back on the belt, guiding the end so that it goes into the first slot. Check that the mark lines up with the top slot again. If it doesn't, loosen the belt, adjust its position in the second and third slots, and repeat.

[[File:Belt-2-12.jpg|600px]]

It should look like this from the other side, although your belt may be a little longer. You can trim it once you've tensioned the belt satisfactorily.

Put the belt back on the idlers and pulley. It's easier to do the belt pulley first, then the idlers. If it's not possible to put the belt back on the pulley and idlers because it's too tight, redo the looping through the belt anchor, giving the belt 2–4 mm of extra slack (1–2 teeth). If the belt has too much slack, redo the looping to take some up. The belt should be as short as possible while still able to be put back on the idlers and pulley.

Put one M5 × 14 mm screw in the top hole of the belt tensioner, and tighten it to force the tensioner apart from the anchor plate. This tightens the belt. The belt should be reasonably taut, but do not overdo it — the tensioner is tougher than the belt! Too tight a belt results in excessive friction, and premature wear of the belt and the bearings of the motor. However, a loose belt reduces precision, because it's a source of backlash.

== NEMA 23 Motors ==

[[File:Belt-3-01.jpg|600px]]

Insert the belt about 60 mm into the slot nearest the tapped hole, teeth facing toward the hole.

[[File:Belt-3-02.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the third slot.

[[File:Belt-3-03.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the second slot.

[[File:Belt-3-04.jpg|600px]]

Pressing on the small loop between the second and third slot with a finger, pull on the long end of the belt, guiding the short end into the first slot too.

[[File:Belt-3-05.jpg|600px]]

The result should look like this.

[[File:Belt-3-06.jpg|600px]]

Thread the free end of the belt through the second slot from the bottom of the belt anchor, teeth down. (For the Y axis, it's the bottom slot on the end plate.)

[[File:Belt-3-07.jpg|600px]]

Route the belt under the idlers and over and around the belt pulley. Thread it through the second slot from the bottom of the opposite belt anchor. (For the Y axis, the bottom slot of the end plate.) Make sure the tensioner at the opposite end is flush with the anchor plate. Pull on the free end of the belt to take up all the slack, and mark the belt where it exits the slot. (Permanent marker leaves a mark visible in good light, even black on black.)

[[File:Belt-3-08.jpg|600px]]

Take the belt off the belt pulley so that you have more belt to work with. Slide it in a little more. Mark the other side of the belt too.

[[File:Belt-3-09.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt through the top slot of the belt anchor. (For the Y axis, this is the second slot from the top.)

[[File:Belt-3-10.jpg|600px]]

Thread the belt back through the middle slot.

[[File:Belt-3-11.jpg|600px]]

Line up the belt so that there's about 12 mm (six teeth) between the top slot and the mark on the belt. Holding the loop on the other side of the anchor with a finger, pull back on the belt, guiding the end so that it goes into the third slot. Check that the mark lines up with the third slot again. If it doesn't, loosen the belt, adjust its position in the first and second slots, and repeat.

[[File:Belt-3-12.jpg|600px]]

It should look like this from the other side, although your belt may be a little longer. You can trim it once you've tensioned the belt satisfactorily.

Put the belt back on the idlers and pulley. It's easier to do the belt pulley first, then the idlers. If it's not possible to put the belt back on the pulley and idlers because it's too tight, redo the looping through the belt anchor, giving the belt 2–4 mm of extra slack (1–2 teeth). If the belt has too much slack, redo the looping to take some up. The belt should be as short as possible while still able to be put back on the idlers and pulley.

Put one M5 × 14 mm screw in the bottom hole of the belt tensioner, and tighten it to force the tensioner apart from the anchor plate. This tightens the belt. The belt should be reasonably taut, but do not overdo it — the tensioner is tougher than the belt! Too tight a belt results in excessive friction, and premature wear of the belt and the bearings of the motor. However, a loose belt reduces precision, because it's a source of backlash.

== Go To ==

* Next step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Y Belts|Y belts]]
* Previous step: [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: Z Rail|Z rail]]
* Back to [[EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly Instructions|assembly top page]]

EShapeoko 1.4 Assembly: X Belt

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