EShapeoko 1.3 Assembly: Prep work

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Check the metal plates for burrs, droplets of metal, or spalsh marks. Scrape them off if possible, or file them off if necessary.


Tap all the following holes M5 × 0.8 mm (standard M5 thread):

  • Both holes at each end of each piece of MakerSlide, except the Z rail, which needs only the holes at one end tapped. Brush chips away and wipe the rail clean, to prevent damage to the V-wheels.
  • The small hole in each of the three belt tensioners in Pack 11.
  • The two holes on either side of the central hole of the Z motor mount plate in Pack 6.


Mark the side of each eccentric spacer that is nearest to the hole. Colour it with a Sharpie or with a tiny dab of paint. The wheel will be offset in the marked direction.


Holes for bolting the two X MakerSlide pieces together (500 mm length shown)

Dual X MakerSlide

Unless you have a kit with a 375 mm X rail, please drill the X MakerSlide for the screws that hold the two rails together.

Lay the MakerSlide flat, Vs up, and drill 3 mm (or slightly larger) holes into the bottom of the T-slot, through the core. The slot has a fine groove on the bottom to help center the drill bit. The positioning of the holes along the MakerSlide is not critical. Drill both X pieces of MakerSlide the same way.

Depending on the length of the X MakerSlide, drill as follows:

  • 375 mm: no drilling required;
  • 500 mm: drill three holes every 125 mm;
  • 750 mm: drill four holes every 150 mm;
  • 1000 mm: drill six holes every 143 mm.

Deluxe Frame

If you have the deluxe frame, you need to drill access holes for the Torx T25 key to reach the blind joint screws that hold the bottom of the frame together.

Access holes for the blind joints

Identify the transversal pieces of 20 mm × 40 mm T-slot profile (parallel to the X axis). They are 60 mm or 65 mm longer than the X axis MakerSlide (the longitudinal pieces are exactly 80 mm shorter than the Y axis MakerSlide). Drill 5–5.8 mm diameter holes from the bottom of the T-slot on the 20 mm side all the way through both cores. If you don't have a drill press, it may be helpful to mark the position with a centre punch, then drill in two stages, making a smaller pilot hole first. It is important that these holes are positioned accurately and drilled squarely. If you drill with a hand-held drill, clamp the profile or hold it in a vice — do not attempt to hold it with one hand and drill with the other hand. It helps to make the holes as large as possible while still fitting within the 6 mm slot, because this gives more wiggle room for the Torx key if the holes and the screws don't line up perfectly.

Drill four holes in each of the transversal members of the frame, two near each end. Depending on the difference between the length of the extrusion and that of the X axis MakerSlide, drill them this far from each end:

  • extrusion 60 mm longer than the X MakerSlide: 26.5 mm and 46.5 mm;
  • extrusion 65 mm longer than the X MakerSlide: 29.0 mm and 49.0 mm.

For example, if your kit with 375 mm X came with 440 mm extrusion, drill 29 mm and 49 mm from each end. Kits with 750 mm X come with 810 mm extrusion, so drill 26.5 mm and 46.5 mm from each end.

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