GAUPS 1.0 Instructions
It's easiest to assemble the board in the order of component height, leaving the tallest last. For the parts with long leads, trim them as soon as you've soldered them. Hold the board so that the driver labels ("X AXIS" etc) are the right way up.
- Solder R1 (10 kΩ resistor).
- Solder SW1 (12-way DIP switch). Orient it numbers to the left, "ON" text in the upper-right corner. The 1, 2 and 3 labels will match the 1, 2 and 3 silkscreen labels for the A axis.
- Solder SW2 (push-button), taking care not to overheat it.
- Solder C1, C2, C3, C4 (47 µF 35 V capacitors), paying attention to the orientation. Install with the negative terminal (shorter lead, marked with a stripe on the body of the capacitor) toward the middle of the board.
- Solder C5, C6, C7, C8 (100 nF capacitors).
- Solder the eight 8-way female headers for the drivers.
- Solder JP1 (dual-row 6-way male header). The holes for it are very tight (sorry!). The best way is to push it in with a flat, rigid object.
- Solder the two 6-way and two 8-way Arduino stacking headers (J1, J2, J3, J4), taking care to not to deposit solder on the long pins, except at their base, where they meet the PCB. Make sure the pins are straight and parallel before soldering them.
- Interconnect one 2-way and two 4-way screw terminals, by sliding the little dovetails into the slots. Solder them as P5, P1 and P2, with the openings for the wires toward the outside of the board.
- Interconnect the remaining two 4-way screw terminals. Solder them as P3 and P4.
Driver pin VMOT (motor supply voltage) is marked with an arrow on the silkscreen (please note that this is different from the beta version). The motor outputs (1A, 1B, 2A, 2B) face the respective screw terminals. The electrolytic capacitor is near the VMOT pin, and the yellow ceramic capacitor is near the VDD pin. The digital inputs are toward the middle of the board.
Note that two drivers (X and Y) are oriented one way, the other two (Z and A) the other way.
The motor screw terminals are connected to the driver output nearest to them, in the same order.
The motor power supply input is P5, the two bottom screw terminals in the block of ten at the left of the board. Positive is next to the X axis motor terminals, negative at the bottom edge of the board. Please note that this is different from the beta version. The polarity is marked on the silkscreen on the back of the board (there was no room on the front).
Do not make or break any connections while the board or the Arduino are powered. There is a high risk of destroying the drivers and/or the Arduino.
For Dual-Y operation, the A driver takes the same control signals (STEP and DIR) as the Y driver. Install two jumpers in the positions marked 'DY' on the board. For 4-axis operation (or spindle relay in the A axis slot), STEP and DIR for the A driver come from Arduino pins D12 and D13. Install two jumpers in the positions marked 'A' on the board.
DIP switches are OFF to the left (the side of the switch with the numbers), ON to the right (the side labelled "ON").
The switches control the microstepping for the four drivers. The silkscreen labels show which switches apply to which driver.
|A4988 and DRV8825||A4988||DRV8825|
|X axis||Y axis||Z axis||A axis||1 ×||2 ×||4 ×||8 ×||16 ×||16 ×||32 ×|
For instance, to set a DRV8825 driver on the Z axis to 8 × microstepping, set switches 7 on, 8 on, 9 off. In the Dual Y configuration, it's simplest to use the same type of driver and motor for both the Y axes (Y and A), and use the same microstepping configuration for both.